Shrimp and grits is a beloved Southern food, but how far back does this dish really go? As a food historian, I’m fascinated by the origins of recipes we still enjoy today. So I decided to do some digging into whether slaves in the American South actually ate shrimp and grits. Here’s what I uncovered.
The History of Grits
First, let’s look at the history of grits. Grits are made from ground corn, and corn was a staple crop grown by Native Americans long before European settlers arrived.
Specifically grits originated with the Muskogee tribe in what is now the Southeastern United States. The Muskogee would grind corn using stone mills resulting in the coarse texture we associate with grits. They likely ate the grits plain, or mixed with vegetables and meat.
When European settlers began arriving in the 1600s, the Muskogee tribes traded ground corn meal (grits) with them. Soon enough, grits made their way into plantation kitchens and became a basic food for slaves as well.
So we know that the slaves who worked on Southern plantations had access to grits as early as the 17th century But what about shrimp?
Slaves’ Access to Seafood
Plantation owners often rationed salted fish and shellfish like shrimp to their slaves. Those living near the coast may have even caught shrimp in secret using nets and traps.
The Gullah Geechee people, descendants of West African slaves living in coastal areas, were known to catch shrimp and cook them together with grits even in the era of slavery.
So despite having limited access to ingredients, slaves combined the rations of grits and shellfish they received to create primitive versions of shrimp and grits.
Shrimp and Grits Post-Slavery
After the Civil War ended slavery, shrimp and grits remained popular among rural black communities along the Southeast coast. It was seen as a humble, filling breakfast food.
Up until the 1980s, shrimp and grits stayed relatively unknown outside the Lowcountry region. But that changed when chef Bill Neal at Crook’s Corner restaurant in Chapel Hill, NC elevated the dish by topping it with cheese, mushrooms, and bacon.
After Neal’s version received praise from New York Times food critic Craig Claiborne in 1985, shrimp and grits took off across the South. It moved from breakfast to a dinner entrée at upscale restaurants.
While the slaves who first combined shrimp and grits way back when would hardly recognize the fancy modern versions, they essentially invented this quintessential Southern meal.
The Role of African & Gullah Cuisine
So why did slaves have shrimp and grits while plantation owners stuck to European cuisine? Their access to ingredients was obviously limited. But scholars also point to the deep impact of African and Gullah food traditions.
West African cooking emphasized affordable ingredients, one-pot meals, and improvising based on what was available. This cuisine was adapted with new world crops like corn and peanuts to become Gullah Geechee cooking.
The Gullah Geechee approach to food is characterized by making the most of humble ingredients with flair and flavor. This certainly applies to shrimp and grits!
So while plantation owners dined on French dishes, the enslaved used grits, shrimp, spices and veggies at hand to create a unique and lasting Southern staple. Their African food heritage helped shape shrimp and grits.
The Origin Story Lives On
The fact that shrimp and grits has slave roots may come as a surprise if you just know it as a popular restaurant dish. But acknowledging the origins of this meal is important.
The improvisational spirit of slaves and their Gullah Geechee descendants gave us so many Southern foods we love today. Their culinary contributions deserve appreciation.
The next time you dig into a bowl of shrimp and grits, consider it a chance to celebrate the ingenuity of African American cooks. Their creativity turned modest ingredients into a hearty, comforting dish with historic Southern flair. Almost 250 years later, we’re still enjoying the fruits of their labor.
