The Great Lobster Roll Debate: Hot vs Cold
Lobster rolls are one of the most iconic foods associated with New England and East Coast summers These delicious sandwiches are made with lobster meat served on a grilled, buttered hot dog bun While the ingredients may seem simple, there is an ongoing debate among chefs and foodies about how lobster rolls should be properly served – hot with melted butter or cold with mayonnaise. In this article, we’ll explore the origins of the lobster roll, the case for both hot and cold preparations, and some tips for making lobster rolls at home.
The History of the Lobster Roll
While lobster was a plentiful food source in New England since colonial times, the concept of the lobster roll as we know it today didn’t emerge until the late 19th or early 20th century. Most food historians agree that the lobster roll originated as a hot sandwich in Connecticut or New York, served with drawn melted butter. Vendors selling lobster rolls began appearing near beaches and coastal towns, marketing them to tourists and vacationers.
The traditional cold lobster roll, dressed with mayonnaise and celery, likely emerged later as vendors experimented with different preparations The cold lobster roll became strongly associated with Maine, which is famous for its lobster fishery However, historical accounts show the first lobster rolls were actually served hot – the cold preparation came later. Both hot and cold lobster rolls grew in popularity throughout the 1900s as vendors competed for customers and tourists’ tastes.
The Case for Hot Lobster Rolls
Hot lobster rolls feature lobster meat warmed through and drizzled with drawn, melted butter. The hot preparation showcases the natural sweetness of the lobster, and the butter adds a richness that perfectly complements the seafood. The bakery-style hot dog bun is lightly toasted or grilled, then the hot lobster filling melts the butter so it soaks into the bread. This style of lobster roll is comforting on cool coastal days, and the hot sandwich contrasts nicely with cold beer or cocktails.
Many chefs prefer hot lobster rolls because they allow the flavor of the lobster itself to shine. Baking and grilling the bun, rather than using mayonnaise as a binder, also provides more textural contrast. The hot preparation also has historical ties to the origins of the dish in Connecticut and New York. However, others argue that steaming or cooking the lobster meat diminishes its delicate texture.
The Case for Cold Lobster Rolls
Cold lobster rolls feature chilled lobster salad made with lobster meat, mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and sometimes celery or herbs. The cold mixture is spooned into a toasted hot dog bun. The cold preparation preserves the texture of the tender poached or steamed lobster meat. It allows the flavor of high-quality lobster to be front and center, without being overpowered.
Many advocates argue the cold lobster roll is the original or “authentic” version of the sandwich. The chilled, creamy salad mimics traditional lobster dishes found along the Maine coast. The cold temperature also provides contrast against the grilled bun and prevents the bread from getting soggy. On hot summer days, the cold lobster salad is refreshing. Condiments like lemon wedges and coleslaw are popular accompaniments.
For some chefs and food critics, a perfectly constructed cold lobster roll beats out the hot version. When done right, the flaky lobster meat mingles with the mayo dressing and celery to create an irresistible flavor. However, others feel the mayonnaise overwhelms the flavor of the lobster itself.
How to Make Lobster Rolls at Home
Here are some tips for making both hot and cold lobster rolls at home:
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Use high-quality lobster, either fresh cooked or sustainable canned lobster meat. Rock lobster or spiny lobster can also work.
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For hot rolls, warm up the lobster meat in melted butter over low heat. For cold, gently mix lobster meat with a small amount of mayo, salt, pepper, and celery.
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Lightly toast or grill hot dog buns until golden. Brioche rolls also work well.
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Fill buns with 4-6 oz (115-170g) of lobster filling. Top with extra butter or lemon wedges.
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Serve hot rolls warm; cold rolls can be served chilled. Wrap in wax paper for easy transport.
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Pair with coleslaw, corn on the cob, chips, or summer salads for a beach-ready feast.
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Make ahead by warming lobster filling or chilling lobster salad. Assemble rolls just before serving.
The Verdict: Hot vs Cold Lobster Rolls
So when all is said and done in this “hot vs cold” debate, which preparation of the iconic New England sandwich reigns supreme? The verdict seems to be a matter of personal preference. Purists may insist the cold lobster roll is the only way to go for authenticity. Others may prefer hot for the indulgent, butter-soaked experience. Top chefs themselves are divided on whether hot or cold is best.
From a historical perspective, hot lobster rolls were the original version. But cold lobster rolls have become strongly tied to Maine and the coastal experience. At the end of the day, both hot and cold lobster rolls have their devotees. As long as the bun is split and toasted, and the lobster meat is fresh and abundant, you can’t go wrong either way. Part of the fun is debating the hot vs cold preparations, and sampling both to form your own opinion!
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Consider the lobster roll, a toasted and buttered roll filled with perfectly cooked lobster meat. It’s hard to think of a dish that makes you think of summers and road trips to New England beaches more than fried clams.
Lobster rolls come in two varieties: hot with melted butter or cold with mayonnaise (and, sometimes, celery). While the cold one is known as the “traditional” preparation, history has actually shown that the first lobster roll was served hot with drawn butter and was made in Connecticut, not Maine.
Which one is better? Some of Boston’s best-known lobster roll chefs talk about their favorites and the best places to drive for a good one.
Chef Daniel Karg, who runs Neptune Oyster in Boston’s North End, says, “It makes sense why they’re so popular.” There are times when people have to wait up to two or three hours just to get a warm or cold lobster roll or any of the other fresh seafood dishes on this menu. “We go through 125 to 150 lobster rolls a day,” Karg says. Some experts say that in the summer, about 60% of the lobster rolls we sell are the hot kind, and in the winter, it gets up to about 85% to 2095% hot. ” Funnily enough, Karg has actually never had the beloved lobster roll that the restaurant serves. “I don’t really like lobster that much,” he says with a laugh. “I love making our lobster rolls, but I‘ve never actually eaten one. ”.
Chef Doug Rodrigues of the new North Square Oyster likes Neptune’s hot lobster roll and has created his own hot and cold versions of the classic dish for his seafood-focused menu. When he was putting together the menu, he knew he had to keep both versions simple and delicious.
Chefs’ Favorite Lobster Rolls Worth a Road Trip
Rodrigues says, “If you change one thing about lobster rolls, people go crazy and write everything about you on Yelp or something.” The lobsters come from Scituate, where he grew up. He makes a cold version with Duke’s mayonnaise, celery, salt, and pepper, and a hot version with brown butter. For him, the hot version plays on the most simple pairing: bread and butter. “There’s a reason why bread and butter is good shit,” he says.
Chef Brian Dandro of ArtBar in Cambridge says, “You can tell the places that do it well and the places that don’t.” At his restaurant, cold lobster rolls are made with lobster meat that has just been shucked and a little lemon aioli. In the winter, the restaurant serves a hot version with a champagne butter sauce. “The cold one is my favorite because it’s so easy,” he says.
In the summer, Dandro takes road trips to Wells, Maine and Essex, Massachusetts for his favorite lobster rolls. “On a hot summer day, there’s nothing better than a cold lobster roll with perfectly cooked lobster meat. ”.
In Portland, Maine, the lobster roll at Eventide Oyster is known for being one of the best in the area, but Andrew Taylor, co-chef and co-owner of the restaurant, didn’t think that they would ever be known for this dish. “We knew we needed to have it on the menu,” he says, “but it’s ironic to hear people say that they like our lobster roll because we specifically wanted to stay out of that.”
Their roll goes against the norm by using Japanese steamed bread as the bun instead of the usual hot dog bun that is griddle-cooked. The meat inside is also chopped finely and swimming in brown butter. “I like both the cold and the hot kind,” he says. “I like the hot one when I’m out, but I like the cold ones when I’m at home.” ”.
This year, Eventide is getting a brother or sister in the Boston neighborhood around Fenway. The idea behind it will be a little different, but there will definitely be a lobster roll on the menu.
Cold or hot, the lobster roll is an immovable part of New England dining, Taylor says. “It’s like a piece of Americana, like gumbo or jambalaya. If you ask any of the chefs above if they think the lobster roll is a must-have summer food, they will all say yes.
“If you grew up on the water in New England, it’s just a part of summer,” Rodrigues says. “You have lobster, and you have butter or you have it cold, that’s just how it is. ”.
HOT VS. COLD LOBSTER ROLL SHOWDOWN: WHICH IS BEST?
Are lobster rolls hot or cold?
Lobster rolls come in two varieties: hot with melted butter or cold with mayonnaise (and, sometimes, celery). While the cold one is known as the “traditional” preparation, history has actually shown that the first lobster roll was served hot with drawn butter and was made in Connecticut, not Maine. Which one is better?
Are lobster rolls a casual meal?
Lobsters are usually seen as a fancy meal, but lobster rolls are actually considered casual and lobster salad falls some place in the middle. Cold lobster rolls are what is served anyplace north of Connecticut, where you’ll get a hot lobster roll instead. Although, I will say, when in Boston, hot lobster rolls were the most popular.
What is a lobster roll?
Consider the lobster roll, a toasted and buttered roll filled with perfectly cooked lobster meat. Besides fried clams, it’s hard to think of a dish that’s more closely associated with summers and road trips to New England beaches. Lobster rolls come in two varieties: hot with melted butter or cold with mayonnaise (and, sometimes, celery).
What are warm butter lobster rolls?
Connecticut-style warm butter lobster rolls are a classic New England summer sandwich. Steamed, shelled, then tossed in drawn butter and dressed with lemon zest and scallions, these are the old-school warm lobster rolls you’ve been looking for. Happy summer solstice, everyone!