Mantis shrimp are aggressive, burrowing crustaceans that hunt using one of the fastest movements in the natural world. Even though mantis shrimp can be interesting additions to some saltwater tanks, aquarium hobbyists usually see them as a bother.
These stomatopods can quickly break through the hard shells of crabs and snails or spear fish that aren’t paying attention. Their strike uses machinery that boosts their strength so that their limbs can move much faster than muscles alone could.
In any case, this care guide will tell you everything you need to know about Mantis Shrimp if you want to keep them as an aquarium pet or just want to learn more about these interesting animals.
Mantis shrimp really do not require much care at all. This is one of the reasons why smaller mantis shrimp are the most popular with aquarium hobbyists. In addition, it is easy to obtain them for relatively low cost in many pet stores.
Can You Own a Mantis Shrimp as a Pet? The Complete Care Guide
Mantis shrimps, also known as thumb splitters or prawn killers, are aggressive crustaceans that have captured the fascination of aquarists worldwide. With their colorful bodies, alien-like eyes, and lightning-fast attack claws, it’s no wonder these unique creatures are growing in popularity as exotic pets.
But can you actually own a mantis shrimp? Is it legal? What do you need to take care of one? This complete guide will give you everything you need to know about keeping these intriguing animals as pets.
The Legality of Owning a Mantis Shrimp
In most parts of the world, it is perfectly legal to own a mantis shrimp. They are not an endangered species, nor are they protected under any wildlife conservation laws.
In the United States, you don’t need any kind of permit or license to buy or keep a mantis shrimp. They are common in the aquarium trade and available for purchase in many pet stores or online.
The only legal issue would be transporting them across state lines or international borders. Certain states may have restrictions on importing exotic species, so it’s best to check your local laws. But within a state, mantis shrimps are unregulated.
Selecting Your Mantis Shrimp
There are over 400 species of mantis shrimps, divided into “spearers” and “smashers” based on their raptorial appendages. Smashers have club-like claws for crushing prey, while spearers have spiny appendages for impaling soft-bodied animals.
For aquarium purposes, smaller species like the Peacock Mantis Shrimp are best. They grow to around 4-6 inches long and are less likely to break tanks or severely injure humans. Some options include:
- Gonodactylaceus glabrous
- Lysiosquillina maculata
- Neogonodactylus oerstedii
- Odontodactylus scyllarus
Avoid large, powerful smasher species that can exceed 12 inches in length. They require massive tanks and are prone to breaking glass.
When selecting your mantis shrimp, look for bright, vibrant coloration and active movements. Molting is normal, so some faded spots are okay. But pick energetic, healthy individuals that are alert and aware.
Tank Requirements for Mantis Shrimps
Mantis shrimps need specialized aquariums to accommodate their powerful strikes and penchant for destruction. Here are the basic tank requirements:
- Size – A minimum 10 gallon tank for small species, up to 55+ gallons for large smashers.
- Material – Acrylic or very thick glass. Avoid standard glass tanks.
- Lid – Must be completely sealed with no gaps. They can push up lids and escape.
- Substrate – 3-4 inches of fine sand or fine gravel. They burrow.
- Decor – Rocks, tubes, clay pots for hiding and burrowing.
- Filtration – Strong filtration is a must. Canister filters preferred.
- Heater and thermometer to keep temperatures 72-80°F.
- Hydrometer to maintain salinity between 1.018-1.025.
- Powerheads for strong currents. They live in surf zones.
Avoid sharp decor, delicate corals, or fish tankmates that can be injured or killed by the mantis. Bare tanks with only burrows and hiding spots are best.
Water Parameters for Mantis Shrimp Tanks
As marine crustaceans, mantis shrimps require pristine saltwater conditions:
- Temperature: 72-80°F
- pH: 8.0-8.4
- Salinity: 1.018-1.025
- Ammonia, nitrites: 0 ppm
- Nitrates: <20 ppm
- Alkalinity: 8-12 dKH
Use a high quality salt mix and adequate filtration to maintain parameters. Do weekly 10% water changes. Test alkalinity and calcium routinely as well. Low pH can erode their shells.
What Do Mantis Shrimps Eat?
Mantis shrimps are voracious predators that eat meat and seafood. Offer a varied carnivorous diet such as:
- Chopped fish fillets (tilapia, salmon, shrimp, scallops)
- Mussels, clams, oysters
- Squid, octopus
- Crab and lobster meat
- Live ghost shrimp, fiddler crabs, crayfish
- Frozen krill, mysis, brine shrimp
- Pellets or flakes for crustaceans
Feed daily, as much as your mantis will eat in 3-5 minutes. Remove uneaten food to avoid fouling the tank. Use feeding tongs, not fingers!
Caring for Your Mantis Shrimp
Caring for these intriguing pets is relatively simple provided you give them proper housing. Some care guidelines include:
- Perform weekly 10% water changes. Use a gravel vacuum.
- Test water parameters routinely and correct any issues.
- Wipe down tank walls to remove algae buildup.
- Clean protein skimmers and filter media monthly.
- Provide new shells or decor for burrowing/molting.
- Monitor for signs of stress like lack of appetite.
- Keep tank decor minimal and free of sharp objects.
- Never hand-feed or handle your mantis shrimp!
With the right setup, most species will thrive for 3-6 years or longer in captivity. Pay close attention to water quality and their dietary needs.
Behavior and Temperament of Mantis Shrimps
Mantis shrimps are solitary, highly aggressive creatures that should never be housed together. They will battle viciously over territory and feed voraciously on any tankmates they can capture.
Each mantis shrimp will need its own aquarium. Heavy damage and injuries can result from two or more together.
They spend much of their time hidden in rockwork or burrows, peering out to ambush prey. Lighting should be subdued as they are sensitive. Handle only when necessary with tongs or nets.
While fascinating to watch hunt and feed, mantis shrimps do not interact with humans. They are as likely to attack fingers or decor as prey items when hungry. Appreciate them from a distance!
The Pros and Cons of Keeping Mantis Shrimps as Pets
Let’s summarize the positive and negative aspects of owning a mantis shrimp:
Pros:
- Endlessly fascinating hunting behaviors
- Bright, vivid coloration
- Relatively low maintenance
- Active and long-lived compared to other crustaceans
Cons:
- Require specialty aquariums
- Can break glass tanks
- Carnivorous diet is expensive
- Cannot be handled safely
- Cannot house tankmates or multiple mantis
- Aggressive temperament
If provided an appropriate habitat, mantis shrimps make truly unique pets. But they also demand specific care requirements, housing, and expenses not suitable for all aquarists. Do your research before committing to one of these marine wonders!
Finding and Purchasing a Mantis Shrimp
Searching for a healthy mantis shrimp specimen? Check local saltwater aquarium stores first, as shipping can be stressful on crustaceans.
Online sources include:
- LiveAquaria.com
- AquariumCreationsOnline.com
- eBay.com
- Etsy.com (some sellers)
Prices range widely based on species, size, and color from $20-$200 USD. Buy captive bred individuals when possible.
Make sure to have the proper tank fully cycled and ready before purchasing your mantis shrimp. Allow the tank to mature for 4-6 weeks to avoid dangerously high ammonia and nitrites.
Then properly acclimate your new pet following local fish store guidance. Turn off tank lights, float the bag for 20 minutes, add small amounts of tank water every 5 minutes, and gently release them into the tank after 40-60 minutes.
Conclusion
For experienced aquarists seeking a unique marine pet, mantis shrimps offer beauty, fascinating behaviors, and a bit of challenge as well. Just be prepared for their housing needs, expenses, temperament, and strict carnivorous diet before taking the plunge.
With special acrylic tanks, proper water parameters, and adequate feeding, mantis shrimps can thrive in home aquariums. But they are not casual pets for everyone. Do extensive research on caring for these intriguing crustaceans before welcoming one into your home.
Behavior of the Mantis Shrimp
There are many dangerous animals that the mantis shrimp can live in, like in aquariums and in the wild. Actually, I do not think that I have stressed it enough. Let me rephrase it. The Mantis shrimp is a ruthless, unstoppable, and smart hunting machine. Now, this description is more appropriate.
Their hunting behavior will depend on the species you have. For example, ʻSpearersʼ Mantis shrimp are pure ambush predators. They scan the environment from a concealed position and then rapidly execute a surprise attack. They usually hide in sandy burrows to catch prey that tries to get away, but “Smashers” mantis shrimp can also look for food outside of their burrows. Unlike many other ambush predators, ‘Smashers’ Mantis shrimp are very persistent. If their attack failed, they will often pursue the prey until they catch it.
Interesting facts: According to the study, small Mantis shrimp species (like Alachosquilla vicina – 1 inch or 2.5 cm long) can attack several times faster compared to large ones (like Lysiosquillina maculate – 5 – 7 inches or 13 – 17 cm).
The mantis shrimp spends most of its life living in its burrow or cavity. They are very secretive and solitary sea animals. Some species of Mantis shrimp, on the other hand, can mate with a partner and stay together their whole lives.
They are also extremely intelligent and capable of learning. Lots of people who keep Mantis shrimp say that their shrimp started to see them as “Bringers of Food” and weren’t afraid to come out.
Mantis shrimp are very quick and deadly predators, which feed on any aquatic creature they can catch.
Depending upon the species, mantis shrimp catch their food using either of two distinct methods. “Spearers” mantis shrimp like to catch fish or shrimp that move quickly, while “Smashers” like to eat hard-shelled animals that stay in one place, like crabs, lobsters, shrimp, snails, clams, mussels, and more. ). They will smash and break their prey with their fierce appendages to retrieve the soft tissue.
When it comes to food, mantis shrimp are often very picky. They will sometimes kill a live food item, which looks like territorial defense, but not eat it. Most will, however, suits unfamiliar foods over time.
This takes time and experimentation. It’s actually pretty funny to watch them grab an unfamiliar food, run back to their den, and then spit it out as disgusting! Tong-feeding will let you give them a wider range of foods than if you only gave them live food.
Frozen mussels, prawns, scallops, clams, squid, crab, and various fishes are all readily accepted. Human markets and bait stores are also great places to find unique foods for pets, like different kinds of shrimp, fish, snails, and abalone. Giving your pet these foods will make its diet healthier.
WARNING: Use forceps with Mantis shrimp tank. Do not use your fingers as serious injury can result! This is not a joke. They hit hard enough to break the bones. While ʻSpearersʼ can cut your skin. |
Keeping and Housing Mantis Shrimp
Mantis shrimp are usually straight forward and very easy to care for. However, for optimal results, here are some handy tips that you should follow in order to keep them in an aquarium. Note: Also, I have made a list of the most popular Mantis shrimp species that aquarists usually keep in their tanks. I used information from Berkeley University of California, so all credits go to them.
Mantis shrimp species | Size (up to) | Type | Temperature | Suitability for Aquarium |
Alachosquilla vicina |
3.2 cm |
Spearer | 22–28° C | Fair, rarely leaves burrow, non-interactive.
Hunts day and night from burrow entrance, adults live in monogamous pairs. |
Acanthosquilla derijardi | 7.5 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Hardy, but secretive. Very long lived and slow growing. Secretive in burrow. |
Alima pacifica | 4 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Fair. Adults don’t live long in captivity. |
Busquilla plantei | 7 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Fair. Seems sensitive to water parameters. |
Chorisquilla hystrix | 2.8 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good, but rarely comes out of its cavity. |
Chorisquilla excavata | 2.5 cm | Smasher | 22–27° C | Reclusive, remaining in cavity at entrance, but hardy.
Diurnal, darts out of cavity to seize small prey. |
Chorisquilla tweediei | 3 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good, but rarely leaves its cavity. |
Cloridopsis dubia | 15 cm | Spearer | 20–27° C | Good. Seems tolerant to fluctuating water parameters. |
Coronis scolopendra | 7 cm | Spearer | 21–28° C | Hardy, but reclusive. |
Echinosquilla guerinii | 8 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good. Needs stable water parameters; not active but usually can be seen looking out of cavity entrance. |
Fallosquilla fallax | 6 cm | Spearer | 22–27° C | Somewhat delicate; difficult to provide adequate substrate for it to burrow. |
Gonodactylellus annularis | 2.2 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Hardy, but secretive. Long lived and slow growing. |
Gonodactylellus espinosus | 4 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Reasonably hardy; does best with moderate current. |
Gonodactylaceus falcatus | 8 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good; not particularly hardy, not very interactive. |
Gonodactylaceus glabrous | 8 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Excellent; hardy, moderately interactive. |
Gonodactylaceus graphurus | 9 cm | Smasher | 21–28° C | Excellent. It can tolerate some fluctuation in water parameters. |
Gonodactylaceus ternatensis | 12 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Good. However, it will break coral and requires stable water parameters. |
Gonodactylellus affinis | 3.5 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Good; rarely leaves cavity. |
Gonodactylellus caldwelli | 7 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Good; rarely leaves cavity. |
Gonodactylellus viridis | 5.5 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Excellent; hardy and active. |
Gonodactylus childi | 4 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Good; hardy, but not interactive; rarely leaves cavity. |
Gonodactylus chiragra | 10 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Good; hardy; not very interactive; largest animals can chip glass tank. |
Gonodactylus platysoma | 9 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good; not very interactive, but hardy. |
Haptosquilla banggai | 3.5 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Hardy. |
Haptosquilla glyptocercus | 4.5 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Excellent; hardy, but rarely leaves cavity; lives 5 years or more in captivity. |
Haptosquilla hamifera | 2.9 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Good; remains in cavity, not interactive. |
Haptosquilla stoliura | 6.5 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Good; very hardy, not interactive. |
Haptosquilla trispinosa | 4.3 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Good; hardy; rarely leaves cavity. |
Hemisquilla californiensis | 32 cm | smasher | 16–18° C | Poor; requires burrow, prone to shell disease, not interactive. |
Lysiosquillina glabriuscula | 22 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Hardy. |
Lysiosquillina lisa | 32 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Hardy. |
Lysiosquillina maculata | 40 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | It will excavate burrow in deep sand beds and grow rapidly; hardy. |
Neogonodactylus bredini | 6 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Excellent; very hardy; active. |
Neogonodactylus curacaoensis | 7 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Somewhat difficult; shy; requires very stable, good water parameters. |
Neogonodactylus oerstedii | 7 cm | Smasher | 22–29° C | Excellent; hardy and active. |
Neogonodactylus wennerae | 8 cm | Smasher | 21–29° C | Excellent; hardy and active. |
Odontodactylus brevirostris | 7 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Fair; intolerant of changing parameters or low oxygen; very interactive and alert. |
Odontodactylus cultrifer | 1.2 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Fair; seems sensitive to water parameters. |
Odontodactylus havanensis | 7 cm | Smasher | 23–28° C | Fair; cannot tolerate changing parameters or low oxygen; active and interactive. |
Odontodactylus japonicus | 17 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Excellent; largest animals can break or chip glass; they dig constantly and will rearrange landscaping; active swimmers that can jump. |
Odontodactylus latirostris | 8 cm | Smasher | 20–28° C | Good. However, it does not tolerate low oxygen or high ammonia. Active and interactive. |
Odontodactylus scyllarus | 18 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Excellent. Largest animals can break or chip glass. Large adults prone to develop shell disease. Active and interactive. |
Oratosquilla oratoria | 18 cm | Spearer | 20–28° C | Reasonably hardy. Do best if allowed to burrow. |
Protosquilla folini | 2.8 cm | Smasher | 22–27° C | Reclusive, remaining in cavity at entrance, but hardy. |
Pseudosquilla ciliata | 9.5 cm | Spearer | 21–28° C | Excellent, hardy and active; will shift sand that can bury corals. |
Pseudosquillana richeri | 8.7 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Hardy, but reclusive and timid; easily spooked. |
Pseudosquillisma guttata | 3.5 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Delicate. |
Pseudosquillopsis marmorata | 15.5 cm | Spearer | 14–17° C | Good, but needs refrigerated aquarium; nocturnal, rarely seen out of its burrow even at night. |
Pullosquilla thomassini | 2 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Hardy; live up to 3 years in captivity. |
Raoulserenea hieroglyphica | 8.3 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Not very hardy. |
Raoulserenea komaii | 10 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Good and active. |
Raoulserenea ornata | 4 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Delicate. |
Raoulserenea oxyrhyncha | 8.8 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Delicate. |
Squilla empusa | 18 cm | Spearer | 18–26° C | Difficult to keep due to burrow requirements; temperature. Nocturnal |
Squilla rugosa | 12.5 cm | Spearer | 22–28° C | Good; seems tolerant of varying water parameters |
Taku spinosocarinatus | 2.4 cm | Smasher | 22–28° C | Hardy, but reclusive nature and very small size make it difficult to observe or even find |
Tetrasquilla mccullochae | 7 cm | Spearer | 21–28° C | Hardy if provided sand in which to construct a burrow |
Avoid keeping ‘Smasher’ Mantis shrimp in a glass aquarium. Even small individuals can chip the glass. While big ones can break it. This isn’t in the least common, but watch them at feeding time. Additionally, it has been said more than once that when they hit a problem they need to solve, they often try to punch their answers. Some aquarists saw them attacking their reflection through the glass.
Note: Acrylic tanks are your choice if you are going for a large species.
Large aquariums make it easier to keep an eye on the water quality, but small Mantis shrimp (1 to 3 inches or 2 5 – 7 cm) do quite well in 10-gallon (~40 liters) aquariums. Individuals longer than 8 inches (20 cm) will require at least 20 gallons tank (80 liters).
Note: Making sure your tank is fully cycled before adding any Mantis shrimp is more important than the size of the tank.
Mantis shrimp are hardy and difficult to kill. They are not picky about tank water parameters and are easy to care for. Most types of mantis shrimp do best in water that is 72 to 80 F (22 to 26 C) and has a salt level of 1. 018 to 1. 025.
Mantis shrimp are ambush predators and need places to hide. In general, a sandy substrate at the bottom of the tank is preferable. If you are planning to keep a ‘Spearer’ Mantis shrimp, the sand becomes mandatory. Sand bed should be at least 1. 5 times as deep as the animal is long.
If you want to keep a “Smasher” Mantis shrimp, you will also need to add rocks or gravel and PVC pipes to make the tank look like its natural environment. This type prefers to hide in tube-shaped cavities. Some species often even close their cavity at night. This will help your Mantis shrimp to feel safe and stress-free in the tank. Despite their fearless attitude, Mantis shrimp will languish and die if forced to stay within the open.
Keep in mind that aquascaping often does not work with Mantis shrimp. They are very strong and can push, drag, dig and rearrange everything in your reef tank. Mantis shrimp can move huge amounts of sand and gravel from one place to another, and they can sometimes build very stable burrows on their own.
It will be great to set an aquarium light timer to mimic their natural cycle. Filtration is often quite simple because they do not require anything special. Just pick up whatever suits your budget.
Note: Mantis shrimp are pretty tough when it comes to water quality, but they are very sensitive to chemicals in the air, like many other aquatic invertebrates. Fumes from paints, floor waxes, cleaning products, and other things can get into aquariums, even ones that are covered, and can kill Mantis shrimp. So be careful where you are going to place the tank.
Important: No matter how hardy Mantis Shrimp are, it is best to acclimate them before keeping them as a pet (read more about it).
Mantis Shrimp Care & Where to Buy Mantis Shrimp
Can a mantis shrimp live alone?
The Mantis Shrimp prefers to live alone, and you shouldn’t pair it with any other fish, shrimp, snail, or other aquatic creature, no matter the species. But let’s see why. Why Mantis Shrimp are Not Good Tank Mates? I would say there are 4 reasons why Mantis Shrimps cannot cohabitate with any other tank pet:
Should I buy a mantis shrimp or keep one?
If you decide you want to buy a mantis shrimp or keep one, because of its territorial and aggressive nature, it is best kept it in a tank by itself, but several may be kept together if you have a very big tank with plenty of room. When removing a mantis shrimp, it is not always an easy task. It takes patience and time.
Can mantis shrimps live with other tank pets?
I would say there are 4 reasons why Mantis Shrimps cannot cohabitate with any other tank pet: Extreme territoriality – Mantis shrimps spend their lives near the substrate, around corals and rocky caves. Once they’ve set their territory, they will attack anyone roaming around, whether they are aggressive or friendly.
Can a mantis shrimp have more than one aquarium?
Mantis shrimps like to burrows and create nests. Keeping more than one in aquarium can lead to territorial aggression over caves and nests and we do not recommended attempting to keep more than one in an mantis shrimp aquarium. Are mantis shrimp smart ?