A few hundred yards away, I could hear the constant gobbling of a lovesick tom as soon as I got out of the car. The conditions elicited a familiar, euphoric feeling; I would close the deal on the boisterous bird. Why? Déjà vu. A few years earlier, I notched a Virginia “Spring Only” turkey tag under virtually identical circumstances.
I loaded my gun, made one last check of my equipment, and then I started my carefully thought-out descent toward the bottom of the gulch, away from the gobbler that was perched there. Perched atop a ridge near the boundary of the neighbor’s land, the tom enjoyed a largely unhindered view of the valley beneath. I used the terrain and flora to my advantage.
If history were to repeat itself, the longbeard would take off from the roost tree, fly over the property line, land in the clearing just in front of my position, see my Gobstopper hen decoy, and close the distance for a shot while flapping his feathers. My Primos “The Karen” mouth call elicited an instant response, which solidified the plan, and another It was “go time”; there was no turning back or changing tactics now.
It was now a waiting game, with the deke in the “fatal funnel” between his landing zone and the hill where I huddled among the various plants and rock outcroppings. It didn’t take long. A few additional yelps—which were enthusiastically answered—weren’t needed but spurred the inevitable. Then he fell silent. Having spent over thirty years hunting turkeys, I was able to decipher its meaning with ease: he’s either approaching or has already left.
My suspicions were confirmed by the sounds of a few wing beats and glides, as well as by a glimpse of his landing. Best of all, the animated bird was already within 40 yards and in view of the decoy. Turning off the safety, I eased toward his hen and waited for the now-strutting gobbler to get past a dead, fallen cedar tree. He didn’t make it.
If you’re still with me, or if the hunt I mentioned from my 2020–21 season piqued your interest, then you’re at least thinking about going on a spring turkey hunt. That’s phenomenal! Getting started isn’t difficult, nor does it have to be expensive. You also don’t have to be an “expert” to find success. Like any endeavor, there are foundational skills that are necessary, and the rest can be learned—and honed—as you match wits with cunning toms over time. The following sections will teach you the requirements for becoming a turkey hunter and provide you with crucial knowledge in the process.
Don’t believe that you need a truckload of equipment to notch your tag—you don’t. But there are some non-negotiables, as well as items that are handy. Obviously, the first is a firearm.
Rifles are legal to use for spring turkey hunting in some states (like Virginia), but not in many others. Besides, even when they are, they’re usually not the best equipment for the job. Shotguns get the nod. But unlike other wing-shooting sports, turkey hunters frequently have one opportunity to aim a single shot at a small (and rarely stationary) target: the head and neck. Most shotguns are perfectly functional, especially when loaded with the most cutting-edge shells available today, considering the proximity of the bird to the hunter and the limited number of shots available.
More important than action type—i. e. , single-shot, over/under, side-by-side, pump-action and semi-automatic—is the constriction of the scattergun’s choke(s). A “Full” or “tighter” constriction is suitable, and it is typically stamped on the barrel(s) of models that don’t accept choke tubes or the choke tubes themselves of those that do. Why? Because “tight” constrictions result in patterns with dense cores, you want to deliver as many pellets to the head and neck as possible to ensure a humane kill. Most new shotguns come standard with multiple choke tubes, of which one is usually “Full. ” There are numerous aftermarket choke tube manufacturers that make dedicated turkey-hunting chokes in an array of constrictions. When it comes to chokes, the saying “too much of a good thing” is applicable; extremely tight constrictions can occasionally negatively affect patterns with particular loads and make it simpler to miss a gobbler that approaches particularly closely.
You need to spend time at the range patterning your shotgun, choker, or shell in order to determine the pattern it will make and whether the weapon will even hit its target. At a distance of thirty yards, shoot a turkey target (I like to use TruGlo’s reactive Tru-See) from a solid rest while hanging a sizable sheet of paper. Note the distribution of pellets and location of the pattern’s core, which may be centered … or not. There’s no consensus on the number of pellets that should strike the vitals. Some hunters say three, for others it’s five, and for yet others it’s well above that. Just know that more is better, and redundancy is a good thing. It’s important to be certain that you can disable the bird without any doubt, even if it moves or your aim isn’t perfect. Repeat the process. Multiple targets at a given distance will better illustrate the average pattern. Next, move back in 10-yard intervals and continue testing. You’ll come across insufficient patterns at a certain distance; keep this in mind and stop well short of it in the field.
As an aside, to help better aim your shotgun, you can add a red-dot/reflex-style sight. I recommend this, as it makes precise delivery of the pattern’s core on the vitals very easy. It also speeds sighting.
As for gauge, 10-, 12-, 16-, 20- and 28-gauge, as well as . 410-bore, can kill a turkey; don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. A pellet fired from the barrel of a 12-gauge is no more powerful than one from a . 410 if the muzzle velocities are identical. The primary difference between the larger gauges and smaller ones is the shot charge (i. e. , number of pellets) each can send downrange. More shot aids hit probability but also increases felt recoil. Since 12-gauge and, increasingly, 20-gauge are the main focus of load development, the selection of options is wider.
The three most important factors to take into account when choosing ammunition are legality, cost (for you), and compatibility with your intended use (for patterns and range). Tungsten Super Shot (TSS), Hevi-Shot, bismuth, or one of the other lead-free alternatives are your only options if lead shot is banned; however, TSS is a favorite among dedicated turkey shooters because of its unmatched penetration and tight patterns at astounding distances. The cost is high, though. TSS loads are available from Federal, Browning, Remington, Apex Ammunition and Fiocchi, among others. Lead loads are still a great option for all but the longest shots and are economically friendly. For those wanting a mixture of the abovementioned shot types, go with Federal 3rd Degree TSS.
Consult your game laws before selecting shot size. The advent of TSS, which has a density of 18. 1 g/cc (versus lead’s 11. 34 g/cc), enables you to use a smaller shot and achieve comparable downrange performance. Still, the small shot sizes aren’t legal universally. Game laws can also prevent using shot that is too large. In general, No. 4, 5 and 6 shot are the most popular and practical shot sizes. No. With 4s, you’ll get fewer but larger pellets for better impact and reach, whereas with 6s, the opposite is true. No. 5 shot is a good compromise. At most practical ranges, a turkey won’t know the difference. As for TSS, companies load shot as small as No. 10 and even some with multiple sizes, though most are between No. 7 and 9. I prefer No. 7; I’ve never encountered a more lethal pellet for turkeys.
Beyond the firearm and ammunition, you’ll need a call or, preferably, calls. Like humans, turkeys are individualist and what entices one might not work for another. I often carry two to three diaphragm (or mouth) calls—Primos “The Karen” and HS Strutt Cutt’n 2. 5 and The Fang—as well as a box call (Primos Bamboozled), and glass (HS Strut Lil’ Deuce). All three of my longbeards, as well as that of my son, fell to the former last season.
Generally, I use the increased volume they provide to fire up a bird (especially on windy days) and get it heading my way, where I finish it with a mouth call. However, there have been times when a box or glass/slate/pot call performs better than a mouth call. Although diaphragm calls are more difficult to use than handheld ones (it took me years to even be able to hold one in my mouth without gaging), once the deer is in sight and you are immobile, they are an absolute necessity. However, find what works best for you and practice, practice, practice. Taking it out of the package and straight into the woods will cost you birds. You get out of the hunt what you put into preparation.
Decoys are nice to have on-hand, but not essential. Realistic ones are especially useful for pulling in wary toms, but more important is the attention they draw. The bird will be less likely to notice you because it is concentrating on the deke, which it believes to be the source of the call. My decision to use my collapsible hen decoy is contingent upon the bird’s response to my call, but I usually carry one with me. The risk is worth the reward when there are multiple birds responding, there’s a chance for a long hunt, or I need to pull a bird across property lines. If a longbeard is literally running in, I don’t risk being seen. I occasionally use a jake decoy on private land to agitate a dominant gobbler into approaching, but I don’t use it on state or federal land because of other hunters.
As for camouflage, don’t get caught up in the hype. Remaining motion free and in the shadows is more important than high-dollar concealment. Patterns aren’t critical; you can buy whatever somewhat resembles the flora you’re hunting. I shop according to price, and it doesn’t seem to matter how many longbeards I kill each year.
Aside from the shotgun, I always carry the following items into the turkey woods: pruning shears (use them to quickly chop brush and construct an improvised blind), extra shells, a rangefinder, a binocular, gloves, a face mask, snake-proof boots (or chaps), an HS Strut Super Light Portable Ground Blind, snacks, and water or sports drink. You might add a Thermacell if you’re in an area with a lot of mosquitoes. A quality turkey vest will help keep the items accessible and prevent them from jostling, making noise. It’s also great for carrying out a gobbler.
Consistently tagging a spring gobbler requires an understanding of the quarry’s habits and its habitat. For example, as you read in the introduction, the longbeard came from a neighbor’s ridge and died on our land. What made it possible was a full understanding of the turkey’s behavior in that area and the terrain. The tom spent its days on the hillside and bottom of the creek where I was, while it roosted in the stand of hardwoods as it was supposed to. There, he unfailingly followed a flock of hens through the cedars and autumn olives and across the openings. The grass was short because of the cattle grazing the area, making it the ideal place for the gobbler to prance. This location wasn’t by accident; rather, it was something I discovered during earlier scouting and hunting expeditions, and that information paid off.
It will be harder to kill a bird without having set foot on the property where you will be hunting, but it is still possible. A better option is to go to the area and locate the preferred strut zones, dusting sites, and roosting locations (best accomplished at dawn and dusk) without upsetting the birds. In addition to using binoculars to spot bird movements and patterns from a distance, strategically placed trail cameras can be very beneficial because they allow you to see the exact time and location of the birds. Is it a dealbreaker if you walked into a flock? Nope. About a month and a half ago, I accidentally ran into my most difficult gobbler to date and its hens in the same spot.
Gobblers frequently travel similar paths when they are not harassed, but their daily destinations can vary depending on the availability of food, the presence of predators, the pressure from hunters, and the movement of hens. Key is finding where they want to be and setting up there, or along that route. Sometimes a gobbler won’t stray from his intended destination, even with the best calling and setup. Scout to determine his preferences and use them to exploit him.
While looking for turkey sign, take stock of the terrain. It’s important to be aware of depressions, hills, streams (especially those with high banks), trails, and other physical characteristics that will enable you to move swiftly and stealthily from a gobbler, particularly one that is still roosted early in the season when the trees have not yet shed their leaves.
Knowing the aforementioned information will help you determine the best places to begin your adventure, the gobbler’s most likely path, and alternate setups. The homework is done; now it’s test time.
Volumes have been written about spring turkey hunting, so I cannot cover it all here. But I will provide a synopsis. I will suppose that you’ve been scouting, so you’re acquainted with your quarry’s habits and habitat.
Preferably, you’ve observed and/or listened to where the gobbler will start his day. This is easily pinpointed at dusk the previous evening; unless frightened, rarely would one change its location overnight. If you have this information, you should set up either at the destination or in between the target and the tom. If you anticipate connecting soon after fly down, it’s critical that you move as silently and in the dark as you can, using the terrain to hide from the gobbler. Be aware that tom might not be alone. Unseen hens and approaching too close are sure ways to ruin a hunt in a hurry. Don’t try to get too close; let your calling do the labor. If you end up between the gobbler and its hens, it can be a slam dunk.
It’s not a hard-and-fast rule, but I’ve generally found that calling gobblers uphill increases my chances of success when hunting in mountainous terrain. If not, I’ll just locate a location that provides me with a clear view of the gobbler’s anticipated approach. Make sure that you have a clear shot. Don’t be surprised if it approaches from some other direction, or unseen subordinate birds approach silently. Be ready.
If you have a decoy and feel it’ll be helpful, now’s the time to set it—again, quietly. Note its distance—around 20 to 25 yards is good—and use it for reference. Then, clear out the leaves from your chosen seat. I use the HS Strutt blind material and sticks/branches to interrupt my silhouette (as viewed from the front). Make sure you’re comfortable, as you might have to wait out the gobbler. Ensure your back is against a tree larger than your shoulders. This protects your back from an unseen hunter and helps break up your outline.
I like to give a few quiet tree yelps when the gobbler first sounds off and the woods wake up. This lets the gobbler know that a hen is there. If he responds, that’s a great sign. I may do this a few more times before stopping. When visibility increases and I believe the turkeys are closer to flying down, I’ll yelp with increased volume. His reaction tells me volumes. If the gobbler responds immediately, he’s likely to fly down and approach. I will often throw in a few extra yelps and fly-down cackle, for good measure. I then hush and let the gobbler make his move. Oftentimes, the gobbler will land somewhere between his roost site and you, then approach. Sometimes they’ll gobble non-stop in route, or they might be totally silent. Don’t mistakenly assume that, because it’s suddenly quiet, the gobbler is gone—quite the contrary. I occasionally include turkey sounds like cutts, clucks, purrs, and others, but those are outside the purview of this piece. As you advance, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with these sounds.
You should probably get up and move to intercept the gobbler if he doesn’t appear in a reasonable amount of time, if he’s following hens or moving elsewhere (you can hear the gobble getting farther away). Don’t. If you’ve done your homework, you’re where the tom wants to be or will pass. And if he’s responded, the gobbler knows that a hen is there. A longbeard will return, believe me. It might take a while—even hours—but he will be back to find that hen. The tom just might need to breed live hens before doing so. Patience is essential to success.
Don’t worry if you can’t hunt at first light; I’ve killed plenty of birds from midmorning to late afternoon. In fact, it’s sometimes easier, as the gobblers have lost their hens and are actively looking for replacements. Just make sure that you’re hunting legal hours in your state. When hunting said hours, you’ll need to locate the gobblers. To do so, I use a combination of glassing and calling. Regarding the latter, I’ll utilize my louder calls and go more slowly along trails, field edges, and truck/tractor paths through the woods. I like to do this prior to hills rising because the bird may be right around the corner and may become agitated if you move too quickly. Been there, done that. Take your time. If you locate a gobbler, set up as you would any other time. Since the gobbler is without a hen and seeking, the approach can be fast.
Few types of hunting are as exhilarating as turkey hunting, and you’ll never stop learning. Gobblers will make sure of that. If you put this article’s advice into practice, you should be able to bag your first tom—and hopefully many more—very soon. Good luck. In this article.
Turkey hunting is a thrilling and rewarding experience that requires skill, patience, and the right gear. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or a curious newcomer, understanding the basics of turkey hunting is crucial for success This guide will delve into the essential elements of turkey hunting, from identifying different turkey species and their vocalizations to selecting the proper gear and mastering the art of calling.
Identifying Your Target: A Guide to Turkey Species
Before heading out on your turkey hunting adventure, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with the different turkey species and their characteristics. North America boasts five subspecies of wild turkeys, each with its unique features and behaviors:
- Eastern Turkey: The most widespread and abundant subspecies, found in 38 states and numerous Canadian provinces. They are characterized by chestnut-brown tail feather tips and white and black bars on their wings.
- Osceola Turkey: Found exclusively in Florida, these turkeys have dark-brown tail feather tips and mostly black wing feathers with minimal white bands.
- Rio Grande Turkey: Concentrated in the western desert regions of Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and other western states, with a healthy population in Mexico. They are characterized by tan-colored tail feather tips, equal black and white barring on wing feathers, and moderate gobbles and beards.
- Merriam’s Turkey: Most abundant in the mountainous regions of the West, with the Rocky Mountains considered their central hub. They are characterized by light-colored tail feather tips with more white and less black on their wing feathers.
- Gould’s Turkey: Found only in Arizona, New Mexico, and the Sierra Madres of Mexico, these turkeys are relatively rare. They are characterized by snow-white tail feather tips and long legs.
Knowing the different turkey species and their distinguishing features will help you identify your target and tailor your hunting strategy accordingly.
Decoding Turkey Talk: Understanding Their Vocalizations
Turkeys have a complex vocabulary with over 30 different sounds, though only a few are relevant to hunters. Here are some common turkey vocalizations that you should be familiar with:
- Gobble: A loud, rapid gurgling sound made by male turkeys, primarily during the spring mating season. It’s used to attract females and establish dominance.
- Cluck: A short, staccato note used by turkeys to get the attention of other turkeys.
- Yelp: A series of clucks, often used by hens to communicate with their young or to attract males.
- Purr: A soft, low-pitched sound made by hens to reassure their young or to signal contentment.
- Kee-kee run: A series of high-pitched notes made by hens to alert other turkeys to danger.
Understanding these vocalizations will help you interpret turkey behavior and respond accordingly with your calls.
Gearing Up for Success: Essential Turkey Hunting Equipment
While turkey hunting doesn’t require an extensive arsenal of gear, having the right tools can significantly improve your chances of success. Here’s a list of essential turkey hunting equipment:
- Shotgun: A 12-gauge shotgun is the most popular choice for turkey hunting, but a 20-gauge can also be effective. Choose a shotgun with a smoothbore barrel and a modified choke for optimal accuracy.
- Turkey Loads: Use specialized turkey loads designed for tight patterns and maximum knockdown power.
- Camouflage: Invest in high-quality camouflage clothing that blends seamlessly with your hunting environment.
- Turkey Calls: Turkey calls are essential for attracting turkeys within shooting range. Choose from various types, including box calls, mouth calls, and slate calls.
- Decoys: Decoys can be helpful for attracting turkeys, especially during the spring mating season.
- Binoculars: Binoculars are crucial for spotting turkeys in open fields or wooded areas.
- Boots: Choose comfortable and waterproof boots that provide good traction on uneven terrain.
- Hunting License and Tags: Ensure you have the proper hunting license and turkey tags for your hunting area.
Mastering the Art of Calling: Luring Turkeys Within Range
Turkey calling is an art that requires practice and patience. By mimicking the sounds of turkeys, you can attract them within shooting range. Here are some tips for effective turkey calling:
- Start with basic calls: Begin with simple calls like clucks and yelps before attempting more complex vocalizations.
- Practice regularly: The more you practice, the more proficient you’ll become at making realistic turkey calls.
- Use the right calls for the situation: Different calls are effective in different situations. For example, use aggressive gobbles to challenge dominant males and yelps to attract hens.
- Be patient: Turkeys may not always respond immediately to your calls. Be patient and persistent, and they will eventually come within range.
Turkey hunting is an exciting and rewarding experience that requires skill, patience, and the right gear. By understanding the different turkey species, their vocalizations, and the essential equipment, you’ll be well-equipped to embark on your turkey hunting adventure and experience the thrill of calling in a gobbler. Remember to always prioritize safety, follow ethical hunting practices, and respect the wildlife and the environment.
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- Aaron Carter
posted on April 7, 2022
A few hundred yards away, I could hear the constant gobbling of a lovesick tom as soon as I got out of the car. The conditions elicited a familiar, euphoric feeling; I would close the deal on the boisterous bird. Why? Déjà vu. A few years earlier, I notched a Virginia “Spring Only” turkey tag under virtually identical circumstances.
I loaded my gun, made one last check of my equipment, and then I started my carefully thought-out descent toward the bottom of the gulch, away from the gobbler that was perched there. Perched atop a ridge near the boundary of the neighbor’s land, the tom enjoyed a largely unhindered view of the valley beneath. I used the terrain and flora to my advantage.
If history were repeated, upon exiting the roost tree the longbeard would fly across the property line, land in the clearing immediately forward of my position, catch sight of my Gobstopper hen decoy, and, while displaying his plumage, close the distance for a shot. An immediate response to my Primos “The Karen” mouth call set the plan into motion, and a second cemented it. It was “go time”; there was no turning back or changing tactics now.
It was now a waiting game, with the deke in the “fatal funnel” between his landing zone and the hill where I huddled among the various plants and rock outcroppings. It didn’t take long. A few additional yelps—which were enthusiastically answered—weren’t needed but spurred the inevitable. Then he fell silent. Having spent over thirty years hunting turkeys, I was able to decipher its meaning with ease: he’s either approaching or has already left.
My suspicions were confirmed by the sounds of a few wing beats and glides, as well as by a glimpse of his landing. Best of all, the animated bird was already within 40 yards and in view of the decoy. Turning off the safety, I eased toward his hen and waited for the now-strutting gobbler to get past a dead, fallen cedar tree. He didn’t make it.
If you’re still with me, or if the hunt I mentioned from my 2020–21 season piqued your interest, then you’re at least thinking about going on a spring turkey hunt. That’s phenomenal! Getting started isn’t difficult, nor does it have to be expensive. You also don’t have to be an “expert” to find success. Like any endeavor, there are foundational skills that are necessary, and the rest can be learned—and honed—as you match wits with cunning toms over time. The following sections will teach you the requirements for becoming a turkey hunter and provide you with crucial knowledge in the process.
Gear
Don’t believe that you need a truckload of equipment to notch your tag—you don’t. But there are some non-negotiables, as well as items that are handy. Obviously, the first is a firearm.
Rifles are legal to use for spring turkey hunting in some states (like Virginia), but not in many others. Besides, even when they are, they’re usually not the best equipment for the job. Shotguns get the nod. But unlike other wing-shooting sports, turkey hunters frequently have one opportunity to aim a single shot at a small (and rarely stationary) target: the head and neck. Most shotguns are perfectly functional, especially when loaded with the most cutting-edge shells available today, considering the proximity of the bird to the hunter and the limited number of shots available.
More important than action type—i. e. , single-shot, over/under, side-by-side, pump-action and semi-automatic—is the constriction of the scattergun’s choke(s). A “Full” or “tighter” constriction is suitable, and it is typically stamped on the barrel(s) of models that don’t accept choke tubes or the choke tubes themselves of those that do. Why? Because “tight” constrictions result in patterns with dense cores, you want to deliver as many pellets to the head and neck as possible to ensure a humane kill. Most new shotguns come standard with multiple choke tubes, of which one is usually “Full. ” There are numerous aftermarket choke tube manufacturers that make dedicated turkey-hunting chokes in an array of constrictions. When it comes to chokes, the saying “too much of a good thing” is applicable; extremely tight constrictions can occasionally negatively affect patterns with particular loads and make it simpler to miss a gobbler that approaches particularly closely.
How can you establish the pattern that your shotgun/choke/shell will produce, or if the firearm even hits where it’s aimed? You need to spend time at the range patterning it. Suspend a sizeable sheet of paper—I use inexpensive, remnant wrapping paper—with a turkey target (I prefer TruGlo’s reactive Tru-See) and, at 30 yards, shoot the target from a solid rest. Note the distribution of pellets and location of the pattern’s core, which may be centered … or not. There’s no consensus on the number of pellets that should strike the vitals. Some hunters say three, for others it’s five, and for yet others it’s well above that. Just know that more is better, and redundancy is a good thing. You want no doubt that you’ll incapacitate the bird, even if it moves or your aim is less than true. Repeat the process. Multiple targets at a given distance will better illustrate the average pattern. Next, move back in 10-yard intervals and continue testing. At some distance you’ll encounter insufficient patterns; remember this range and, in the field, stop well short of it.
As an aside, to help better aim your shotgun, you can add a red-dot/reflex-style sight. I recommend this, as it makes precise delivery of the pattern’s core on the vitals very easy. It also speeds sighting.
As for gauge, 10-, 12-, 16-, 20- and 28-gauge, as well as . 410-bore, can kill a turkey; don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. A pellet fired from the barrel of a 12-gauge is no more powerful than one from a . 410 if the muzzle velocities are identical. The primary difference between the larger gauges and smaller ones is the shot charge (i. e. , number of pellets) each can send downrange. More shot aids hit probability but also increases felt recoil. Since 12-gauge and, increasingly, 20-gauge are the main focus of load development, the selection of options is wider.
When selecting ammunition, the foremost considerations are what is legal, affordable (to you), and will it meet your expectations (for patterns and range). If lead shot is prohibited, you’ll need to choose from tungsten super shot (TSS), Hevi-Shot, bismuth or one of the other lead-free options, though the former is popular with ardent turkey hunters due to its unparalleled penetration and tight patterns at jaw-dropping ranges. The cost is high, though. TSS loads are available from Federal, Browning, Remington, Apex Ammunition and Fiocchi, among others. Lead loads are still a great option for all but the longest shots and are economically friendly. For those wanting a mixture of the abovementioned shot types, go with Federal 3rd Degree TSS.
Consult your game laws before selecting shot size. The advent of TSS, which has a density of 18. 1 g/cc (versus lead’s 11. 34 g/cc), enables you to use a smaller shot and achieve comparable downrange performance. Still, the small shot sizes aren’t legal universally. Game laws can also prevent using shot that is too large. In general, No. 4, 5 and 6 shot are the most popular and practical shot sizes. No. With 4s, you’ll get fewer but larger pellets for better impact and reach, whereas with 6s, the opposite is true. No. 5 shot is a good compromise. At most practical ranges, a turkey won’t know the difference. As for TSS, companies load shot as small as No. 10 and even some with multiple sizes, though most are between No. 7 and 9. I prefer No. 7; I’ve never encountered a more lethal pellet for turkeys.
Beyond the firearm and ammunition, you’ll need a call or, preferably, calls. Like humans, turkeys are individualist and what entices one might not work for another. I often carry two to three diaphragm (or mouth) calls—Primos “The Karen” and HS Strutt Cutt’n 2.5 and The Fang—as well as a box call (Primos Bamboozled), and glass (HS Strut Lil’ Deuce). All three of my longbeards, as well as that of my son, fell to the former last season.
Generally, I use the increased volume they provide to fire up a bird (especially on windy days) and get it heading my way, where I finish it with a mouth call. However, there have been times when a box or glass/slate/pot call performs better than a mouth call. Although diaphragm calls are more difficult to use than handheld ones (it took me years to even be able to hold one in my mouth without gaging), once the deer is in sight and you are immobile, they are an absolute necessity. However, find what works best for you and practice, practice, practice. Taking it out of the package and straight into the woods will cost you birds. You get out of the hunt what you put into preparation.
Decoys are nice to have on-hand, but not essential. Realistic ones are especially useful for pulling in wary toms, but more important is the attention they draw. The bird will be less likely to notice you because it is concentrating on the deke, which it believes to be the source of the call. My decision to use my collapsible hen decoy is contingent upon the bird’s response to my call, but I usually carry one with me. The risk is worth the reward when there are multiple birds responding, there’s a chance for a long hunt, or I need to pull a bird across property lines. If a longbeard is literally running in, I don’t risk being seen. I occasionally use a jake decoy on private land to agitate a dominant gobbler into approaching, but I don’t use it on state or federal land because of other hunters.
As for camouflage, don’t get caught up in the hype. Remaining motion free and in the shadows is more important than high-dollar concealment. Patterns aren’t critical; you can buy whatever somewhat resembles the flora you’re hunting. I shop according to price, and it doesn’t seem to matter how many longbeards I kill each year.
Other items that accompany me into the turkey woods are shooting sticks (which will support the weight of your shotgun while you’re waiting for the bird to arrive); pruners (to cut brush and build an improvised blind quickly); extra shells; rangefinder; binocular; gloves; face mask; snake-proof boots (or chaps); an HS Strut Super Light Portable Ground Blind; and snacks and sports drink/water. You might add a Thermacell if you’re in an area with a lot of mosquitoes. A quality turkey vest will help keep the items accessible and prevent them from jostling, making noise. It’s also great for carrying out a gobbler.
Habits & Habitat
Consistently tagging a spring gobbler requires an understanding of the quarry’s habits and its habitat. For example, as you read in the introduction, the longbeard came from a neighbor’s ridge and died on our land. What made it possible was a full understanding of the turkey’s behavior in that area and the terrain. The tom spent its days on the hillside and bottom of the creek where I was, while it roosted in the stand of hardwoods as it was supposed to. There, he unfailingly followed a flock of hens through the cedars and autumn olives and across the openings. The grass was short because of the cattle grazing the area, making it the ideal place for the gobbler to prance. This location wasn’t by accident; rather, it was something I discovered during earlier scouting and hunting expeditions, and that information paid off.
It will be harder to kill a bird without having set foot on the property where you will be hunting, but it is still possible. A better option is to go to the area and locate the preferred strut zones, dusting sites, and roosting locations (best accomplished at dawn and dusk) without upsetting the birds. In addition to using binoculars to spot bird movements and patterns from a distance, strategically placed trail cameras can be very beneficial because they allow you to see the exact time and location of the birds. Is it a dealbreaker if you walked into a flock? Nope. About a month and a half ago, I accidentally ran into my most difficult gobbler to date and its hens in the same spot.
Gobblers frequently travel similar paths when they are not harassed, but their daily destinations can vary depending on the availability of food, the presence of predators, the pressure from hunters, and the movement of hens. Key is finding where they want to be and setting up there, or along that route. Sometimes a gobbler won’t stray from his intended destination, even with the best calling and setup. Scout to determine his preferences and use them to exploit him.
While looking for turkey sign, take stock of the terrain. Depressions, hills, waterways (especially with high banks), trails and other physical features that’ll allow you to move quickly and unnoticed from a gobbler—especially one still roosted early in the season, when the trees are devoid of leaves—are critical to know.
Knowing the aforementioned information will help you determine the best places to begin your adventure, the gobbler’s most likely path, and alternate setups. The homework is done; now it’s test time.
Game On
Volumes have been written about spring turkey hunting, so I cannot cover it all here. But I will provide a synopsis. I will suppose that you’ve been scouting, so you’re acquainted with your quarry’s habits and habitat.
Preferably, you’ve observed and/or listened to where the gobbler will start his day. This is easily pinpointed at dusk the previous evening; unless frightened, rarely would one change its location overnight. If you have this information, you should set up either at the destination or in between the target and the tom. If you anticipate connecting soon after fly down, it’s critical that you move as silently and in the dark as you can, using the terrain to hide from the gobbler. Be aware that tom might not be alone. Unseen hens and approaching too close are sure ways to ruin a hunt in a hurry. Don’t try to get too close; let your calling do the labor. If you end up between the gobbler and its hens, it can be a slam dunk.
It’s not a hard-and-fast rule, but I’ve generally found that calling gobblers uphill increases my chances of success when hunting in mountainous terrain. If not, I’ll just locate a location that provides me with a clear view of the gobbler’s anticipated approach. Make sure that you have a clear shot. Don’t be surprised if it approaches from some other direction, or unseen subordinate birds approach silently. Be ready.
If you have a decoy and feel it’ll be helpful, now’s the time to set it—again, quietly. Note its distance—around 20 to 25 yards is good—and use it for reference. Then, clear out the leaves from your chosen seat. I use the HS Strutt blind material and sticks/branches to interrupt my silhouette (as viewed from the front). Make sure you’re comfortable, as you might have to wait out the gobbler. Ensure your back is against a tree larger than your shoulders. This protects your back from an unseen hunter and helps break up your outline.
I like to give a few quiet tree yelps when the gobbler first sounds off and the woods wake up. This lets the gobbler know that a hen is there. If he responds, that’s a great sign. I may do this a few more times before stopping. When visibility increases and I believe the turkeys are closer to flying down, I’ll yelp with increased volume. His reaction tells me volumes. If the gobbler responds immediately, he’s likely to fly down and approach. I will often throw in a few extra yelps and fly-down cackle, for good measure. I then hush and let the gobbler make his move. Oftentimes, the gobbler will land somewhere between his roost site and you, then approach. Sometimes they’ll gobble non-stop in route, or they might be totally silent. Don’t mistakenly assume that, because it’s suddenly quiet, the gobbler is gone—quite the contrary. I occasionally include turkey sounds like cutts, clucks, purrs, and others, but those are outside the purview of this piece. As you advance, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with these sounds.
You should probably get up and move to intercept the gobbler if he doesn’t appear in a reasonable amount of time, if he’s following hens or moving elsewhere (you can hear the gobble getting farther away). Don’t. If you’ve done your homework, you’re where the tom wants to be or will pass. And if he’s responded, the gobbler knows that a hen is there. A longbeard will return, believe me. It might take a while—even hours—but he will be back to find that hen. The tom just might need to breed live hens before doing so. Patience is essential to success.
Don’t worry if you can’t hunt at first light; I’ve killed plenty of birds from midmorning to late afternoon. In fact, it’s sometimes easier, as the gobblers have lost their hens and are actively looking for replacements. Just make sure that you’re hunting legal hours in your state. When hunting said hours, you’ll need to locate the gobblers. To do so, I use a combination of glassing and calling. Regarding the latter, I’ll utilize my louder calls and go more slowly along trails, field edges, and truck/tractor paths through the woods. I like to do this prior to hills rising because the bird may be right around the corner and may become agitated if you move too quickly. Been there, done that. Take your time. If you locate a gobbler, set up as you would any other time. Since the gobbler is without a hen and seeking, the approach can be fast.
Few types of hunting are as exhilarating as turkey hunting, and you’ll never stop learning. Gobblers will make sure of that. If you put this article’s advice into practice, you should be able to bag your first tom—and hopefully many more—very soon. Good luck. In this article.
How To HUNT TURKEYS: Basics With Jay Maxwell
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