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Anyone who has been to a bagel shop in New York City (called the “bagel capital of the world”) knows that even ordering a simple bagel can make you sweat. Where’s the menu? Scrawled on a chalkboard behind the counter. Is there a line? More like a semiorganized mosh pit. My advice? Don’t overcomplicate it. Order the classic: a bagel (yes, you want it toasted) with lox and a schmear.
But even that standard order isn’t so straightforward. A lot of the time, the shop’s cold case is full of different kinds of cream cheese and a bunch of cold, spreadable “salads.” No changes were made to the fish. “We sell 10 different kinds of smoked fish,” says Niki Russ Federman, co-owner of Russ for the fourth generation. “It’s like choosing a wine. ”.
Though lox and smoked salmon are often used interchangeably, they refer to two different products. Do not worry; I will tell you the difference between lox, smoked salmon, and all of their cured pink cousins. Let’s start with the basics:
Though bagels and lox are famous in New York City, especially among Jews, the story begins on the other side of the ocean. NPR says that early Scandinavian fishermen came up with a way to keep salmon fresh in a saltwater brine. This salt cure is very important. Merriam-Webster says that lox is “salmon that has been cured in brine and sometimes smoked,” but real lox is made with only the fatty belly of a piece of salmon and is only salt-cured. Smoked salmon? She’s something else entirely (more on her in a minute).
At the start of the 20th century, most of America’s salmon came from the Pacific Ocean, near the coasts of Canada and Alaska. “Salmon from the Pacific was hauled across the country in bins packed with salt,” says Federman. This kept the fish fresh on the way to New York. Lox, which was cheap, kept well, and was kosher, became a favorite among the city’s Jewish immigrants. Its name is said to come from the Yiddish word laks, which means “salmon.” ”.
This is the type of lox Federman’s great-grandfather, Joel Russ, carried when he opened his shop in 1914. It’s so salty that bagel shops that still make belly lox, as it’s sometimes called, often put a warning on the bag. While Russ’s salt-cured belly lox So, what is the difference between lox and smoked salmon?.
Primarily? Smoke. Preserving fish via smoke is a longtime practice of many Indigenous American tribes. Somewhere along the way, these salt-curing and smoke-curing methods merged, creating another type of preserved salmon.
To make smoked salmon, most people start with a whole side of fish and lightly salt it with a rub or brine. It’s then smoked, preserving it further. Most lox recipes call for at least three days of curing time, and some go up to months. This makes the flavor of the pure oceanic fish stronger. Smoked salmon typically spends just 18–24 hours in its salt solution before hitting the smoker. This means that the second one is less salty but has a strong smell of the wood that was used to cure it longer.
Different producers use different types of wood, smoke at different temperatures, and expose salmon to smoke for different amounts of time. Federman says that these factors affect the taste and texture of smoked salmon. But there are two general methods: Cold-smoking and hot-smoking.
Cold-smoking happens at a lower temperature—typically 75° or below—over a longer time frame, anywhere from 8–20 hours. This method makes fish with a very delicate texture. Federman says that cold-smoked salmon can be cut into slices that are so thin that “you can read the Times through them.” This type of smoked salmon tastes right at home on a bagel or toast with a proper schmear.
Hot-smoking requires less time (about 8 hours) and a higher temperature, usually around 150°. Hot-smoked salmon, also known as kippered salmon, has the flaky texture of cooked fish. A lot of the time, it comes in thick pieces instead of thin slices. For a quick weeknight dinner, it can be used instead of seared salmon fillet. You can use this Smoked Salmon 7-Layer Dip anywhere you’d use cooked salmon. It’s a great party appetizer made with hot-smoked salmon.
These smoking methods can be used for other types of fish too. In delis, whitefish is often sold whole after being hot-smoked, but you can also ask for it to be deboned or flaked. Smoked whitefish salad is another common bagel shop offering. What about gravlax and Nova lox?.
Gravlax is a Scandinavian specialty. Though salt-cured, gravlax isn’t usually smoked like lox. Instead, recipes usually call for a whole salmon fillet, not just the belly. Gravlax is cured with sugar, dill, and often aquavit, which is a neutral spirit flavored with caraway (some use gin or juniper berries instead). This makes the flavor more aromatic and less salty.
When the term “Nova lox” was first used, it only meant salmon from Nova Scotia. Now, it refers to a specific dish made by curing fish in a salt and sugar mixture and then smoking it cold. It’s not quite as salty as belly lox, and its smoke flavor is quite subtle. Much of the smoked salmon you’ll find today is categorized as Nova lox, or Nova for short.
A lot of bagel shops and delis get creative with their cures by adding herbs or spices to the salt mix to make it taste better. Zabar’s, a famous grocery store in New York, sells peppered Nova salmon, which is cured salmon that has been packed with garlic and coarsely ground black pepper. Meanwhile, Russ & Daughters rubs their pastrami-cured salmon with a blend of 14 herbs and spices.
Kippered salmon is a popular smoked fish delicacy with a devoted following. But what exactly is kippered salmon? How is it prepared and where did this unique dish originate? In this complete guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about kippered salmon including how it’s made, its history, flavors, and the best ways to enjoy it.
Overview of Kippered Salmon
Kippered salmon refers to salmon that has been cured and hot smoked. The salmon is cooked and given a great smoky flavor while it is being smoked. The result is salmon with a firm, flaky texture and deep, robust taste.
While lox and nova are also smoked salmon, kippered salmon has a much stronger smoke flavor. It’s also a darker reddish-brown color than the light pink of some other cold-smoked types. The intense smokiness and concentrated salmon flavor make kippered salmon an indulgent treat.
Kippered salmon is most commonly made from wild Pacific salmon species like sockeye coho, and king. However, it can also be prepared from Atlantic salmon. The salmon is first cured with a dry brine then slowly hot smoked over wood chips. Alder, hickory, apple, and other hardwoods lend their unique smoke essences.
This rich, savory fish is a popular appetizer and bagel topping. It also makes a hearty addition to salads, scrambled eggs, pizza, pasta, and more. While you can purchase kippered salmon from smoked fish purveyors, making your own allows you to control the flavors and quality.
The History and Origins of Kippered Salmon
So where did kippered salmon come from? To understand its origins, we first need to break down the term itself:
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The word “kipper” means to clean, salt, smoke, and split fish to make it cured. Kippering was first created as a way to keep fish fresh for longer periods of time without having to keep it in the fridge.
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Salmon – Various Pacific salmon species have been prized by Native American tribes for thousands of years. When Europeans arrived, salmon became an important food source.
The word “kipper” traces back to the kip or male salmon that was caught during annual migrations. The practice of kippering salmon originated in Scotland, England, and other parts of Northern Europe. Scottish and English immigrants later brought kippered salmon to North America.
On the US West Coast, Native Americans were kippering Pacific salmon long before European contact. In the late 1800s, kippered salmon from Oregon and Washington grew popular across the country as a canned product. Lox also became popular among Eastern European Jewish immigrants in New York.
Today kippered salmon remains a favorite for smoked fish aficionados. While improved preservation methods mean it’s no longer necessary, the concentrated flavors of kippered salmon keep its devotees coming back.
How Kippered Salmon is Prepared
The unique flavor and texture of kippered salmon comes from its specialized curing and hot smoking process:
1. Dry brining – The salmon fillets are coated in a dry brine of salt, brown sugar, and spices. This cures the fish while enhancing flavor. Brining typically takes 4-6 hours.
2. Air drying – Excess moisture is removed by air drying the brined salmon in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours. A sticky protein film called the pellicle forms on the surface.
3. Hot smoking – The salmon is smoked for up to 8 hours over low heat between 120-150°F. Apple, alder, and other hardwoods add smoky flavor.
4. Cooling and resting – Once smoked, the kippered salmon is cooled, then allowed to rest for a day to allow the flavors to meld.
This process results in salmon with a concentrated salty-smoky flavor and firm, dense texture that flakes into juicy bites. The fish develops a deep red-brown patina from the smoking. Connoisseurs consider the pellicle with its spiced, caramelized surface a culinary gem.
Flavor and Texture Characteristics
Kippered salmon stands apart from other smoked fish thanks to its robust flavor profile and unique texture:
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Intense smoky flavor – The most pronounced flavor is a rich, wood-fired smokiness from hot smoking over hardwoods like hickory and alder. This sets it apart fromcold smoked varieties like lox.
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Full-bodied salmon flavor – The fatty salmon picks up the smoke beautifully while still retaining a rich, fishy flavor. King and sockeye salmon are preferred for their high fat content.
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Firm, flaky texture – The salmon has a dense, meaty texture that flakes apart in savory, juicy bites. The flesh retains moisture thanks to the fat and curing.
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Spiced, caramelized pellicle – The exterior is a special treat, with a sticky, spiced pellicle that provides sweet and salty bursts along with smoky nuances.
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Touch of saltiness – The dry brine gives a hint of saltiness to balance the smoke and provide a savory element.
Careful kippering concentrates all the best qualities of the salmon. The result is a more intense version of salmon, infused with smoky aroma and sea-fresh taste.
How to Serve and Enjoy Kippered Salmon
Kippered salmon is extremely versatile. Its rich flavor pairs wonderfully with different ingredients and cooking methods:
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Sandwiches and toast – Classic bagel and cream cheese or piled high on rye or sourdough bread.
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Breakfast – Add to omelets, frittatas, hash, or scrambled eggs.
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Salad topping – Flake over greens, grains or potatoes for an instant protein boost.
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Pizza and pasta – Excellent paired with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, olives, capers on pizza or pasta.
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Quiche and tartines – Mix into savory egg pies or open-faced canapes.
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Appetizers -Serve on crackers or crostini as an appetizer with wine or cocktails.
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Baked goods – Fold into bread, cornbread, biscuits, scones for savory depth.
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Chowders and seafood stews – Flake into hearty soups and chowders.
The deeply savory smoked salmon also pairs wonderfully with tangy foods like cream cheese, capers, pickles and mustard which cut through the rich fattiness. Experiment with different flavor combinations to keep your kippered salmon interesting.
Buying Quality Kippered Salmon
You can purchase kippered salmon from delicatessens, seafood markets and online specialty food retailers. However, finding premium quality can take some savvy shopping. Here are tips for picking the best kippered salmon:
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Check the labeling – Look for specifics like “Kippered Salmon” not just smoked salmon. Wild Pacific salmon varieties like king and sockeye are also preferred.
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Seek out natural wood smoking – The best is smoked over real wood chips, not smoke flavoring. Hickory, alder, apple, and mesquite are top woods.
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Look for sustainably caught salmon – Opt for kipper made from responsibly harvested wild or organic salmon. This ensures healthy fish and ecosystems.
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Evaluate the appearance – Quality kippered salmon has a deep reddish-brown color with visible wood smoke speckling on the surface.
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Smell for freshness – There should be no off or bitter odors. You want a robust, woodsy salmon aroma.
Once opened, store kippered salmon for up to 10 days tightly wrapped in the fridge. Frozen, it can keep for 2-3 months.
Making Your Own Kippered Salmon
For the freshest flavor, you can also kipper your own salmon at home. You’ll need a stovetop smoker or electric smoker along with apple, alder or other wood chips. It takes 1-2 days total, but the hands-on time is minimal. This recipe has simple step-by-step instructions for kippering salmon at home from start to finish.
The process takes some patience, but the payoff of silky, succulent home smoked salmon is well worth it. Customizing your own dry brine and wood smoke allows you to tweak flavors to your taste. Once you nail down the technique, you can kipper salmon to impress guests or make terrific gifts for salmon fans.
Different Types of Kippered Salmon
Traditionally, kippered salmon used wild Pacific species of salmon. But today it’s also prepared from Atlantic salmon and farmed fish. The species and origin impacts the flavor, fat content and texture:
- Pacific (King, Sockeye, Coho) – Most prize
How should I store lox and smoked salmon?
Katz’s Delicatessen, an NYC mainstay, and Russ & Daughters both advise eating lox within 7–10 days. Store any cured fish in the refrigerator in a sealed container. Katz’s also notes that cured salmon lasts up to 3 months in the freezer.
What should I look for when buying cured salmon?
When shopping for smoked salmon, the first place to look is your local bagel shop or deli, especially if they’re curing in-house. The flavor can vary widely based on their process, aromatics used, whether it’s smoked or not, and even the type of salmon (fun fact: Atlantic and Pacific salmon are two entirely different species). Try a few varieties to find out what you like.
Generally, farmed Atlantic salmon will be fattier and more delicate than wild-caught Pacific salmon, which has a leaner texture and a fishier, more robust flavor. Wild salmon will also be vibrantly coral or pink, while farmed varieties tend to have a muted hue. The most popular option at Russ & Daughters is the Gaspe Nova cold-smoked Atlantic salmon, which has a “melt-in-your-mouth butteriness,” according to Federman. By contrast, the bagel shop’s Western Nova smoked salmon (made with wild king salmon from the Pacific) has a “tighter texture and more assertive flavor.”
When you go to the store to buy cured fish, look for the date that says “freshness.” This date can be anywhere from a few weeks to two months from now. The further out, the better. The best products will only list a few ingredients, like the type of fish and the different spices. There should also be information on the label about where the salmon comes from and whether it was farmed or caught in the wild. For a quick and easy brunch, just grab a bag of bagels, some cream cheese, and your favorite toppings, like tomatoes, red onions, capers, and fresh dill. If you need to feed a lot of people, Russ should be sufficient to feed 6–8 people).
Kippered Salmon
FAQ
Is kippered salmon the same as smoked salmon?
What does it mean to kipper salmon?
Is kippered the same as smoked?
What’s the difference between smoked salmon and lox salmon?
What is kippered salmon?
Kippered Salmon is a completely different dish compared to other common smoked fish such as lox, nova, or gravlax. Lox became popular in the pre-refrigeration days when there was no way to preserve fish during transport. As compared to the kippered version of salmon, lox is cold smoked, which means it is smoked at a temperature less than 90 F.
Is smoked salmon safe for kidneys?
Smoked salmon is safe for the kidneys, as long as it does not exceed the renal load, that is, the amount of recommended daily protein.
Is kippered salmon a good choice?
Wild Alaska Salmon can be on the pricier side, but if you are looking to make hot-smoked and cured salmon, it is the best type you can choose. Most often, kippered salmon is sold in chunks as opposed to slices.
Is kippered salmon hot smoked?
Yes, it is hot smoked at a temperature that is approximately above 120 degrees. Hot smoking is the technique that allows kippered salmon to have an intense yet extremely palatable smoky flavor and brings out the umami taste of the fish due to prior curing.