You’ve heard a lot about ‘The Bear’ and Italian beef, the sandwich that defines my hometown. But do you know what it actually is?
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Rarely do I feel compelled to comment on a certain dish, establishment, or culinary craze. But I am from Chicago. Additionally, there is the well-liked Chicago-based FX on Hulu program “The Bear,” which centers on a local dish. I therefore feel compelled to say a few things about the divinely delicious Italian beef sandwich that is distinctively Chicagoan and frequently misunderstood. (I won’t reveal too much about the show itself; we have a TV critic for that.) ).
A 6- to 8-inch long sandwich with thinly sliced marinated meat on a French roll, drenched in juice, and tightly wrapped in waxed paper or insulated foil is what an Italian beef should look like. It ought to feel heavier than you anticipate when you pick it up and damp like a wet diaper. Sorry to be gross, but this is the closest comparison I can think of for a sandwich dripping with both jus and olive oil from a spicy giardiniera that should be on top—or sweet peppers if you can’t handle spice (or both).
It is best consumed immediately while standing up because it is messy and unwieldy. If seated, it’s best enjoyed at your kitchen table or on a bench outside. A cup of Italian ice served with a plastic straw that has a spoon on one end and some fries are both good additions.
Chefs Courtney Storer and Matty Matheson made that enticing Italian beef Carmy prepares in “The Bear.” Storer shows us how to make one at home.
Negative space, however, might be the simplest way to comprehend an Italian beef for those who have never had one. e. , what it isn’t, as opposed to what it is. It certainly differs from the traditional Italian sub sandwich made with a variety of cured meats. It also isn’t a roast beef sandwich, which would have slices of meat that are relatively thick and still pink in the middle. Advertisement.
Ironically, the meat in an Italian beef sandwich is probably the least significant component. Instead of being chopped like you would find in a cheesesteak, it is shaved so thin that it is more accurately described as ribbons than slices. (Imagine it as thin as you possibly can. Now imagine it 50% thinner. Can’t get it that thin? Try chilling it first. While not unimportant, the quality of the beef is less significant when it is shaved and being cooked to hell in its own juices than if you were eating, say, a prime rib dinner.
The bread is essential. It can’t be too soft or the juice will cause it to fall apart. Italian beef rolls should therefore have a texture similar to that of a yoga mat: chewy and firm, able to withstand being dipped in liquid while largely remaining intact. The juice softens the bread and makes it easier to eat. It is a thin, broth-like gravy that tastes of oregano and bouillon cubes. It’s the same concept as when professionals in those hot dog eating competitions always soak their hot dog buns in water. Beef sandwiches are usually ordered “wet” or “juicy. If you prefer, you can have it “dry,” but I’m not sure why you would.
The last piece of the puzzle is the hot pickle mix giardiniera. Cauliflower florets, hot peppers, celery, carrots, and green olives (make sure the pits are removed) are just a few of the possible ingredients. Everything goes well with giardiniera, but a beef sandwich is one instance where it does. Some beef stands offer cheese as an optional topping, but in my opinion, cheese is never acceptable.
Sales of the hearty, filling Italian beef sandwich have increased throughout Los Angeles.
I won’t insult the sandwich and romanticize it unnecessarily by calling it “humble,” though its origins are indeed relatively modest — it was created by Italian immigrants as a way to stretch a cut of meat as far as possible. “It was designed to do that, and it was designed to make a less expensive cut of meat a little more palatable,” said Dan Bartlett, curator of exhibits at the Elmhurst History Museum.
Regarding the sandwich’s origins’ timeline, Bartlett noted that “it seems to be bubbling up in the 1920s, and into the 1930s it starts to become more and more popular.”
The Chicago-based chain Al’s Beef claims to have invented the sandwich in the context of Italian American “peanut weddings” — where peanuts were served to guests when money was tight. Al’s claims that Anthony Ferreri (Al’s father) created the sandwich as a way to feed a large group of people cheaply.Advertisement
Bartlett agrees that the sandwich probably developed in response to the time’s financial realities, but notes that the precise genesis is difficult to ascertain. He stated that it is most likely lost or buried in the sands of time.
Jeremy Allen White of “The Bear” honed his culinary acting abilities at the Institute of Culinary Education in Pasadena and the Pasjoli restaurant in Santa Monica.
Italian beef is one of those hyper-local foods that, like Skyline Chili or Taylor Ham, has never quite made it outside of its native country for whatever reason. However, Italian beef is available outside of Chicago, and trust me, I’ve searched far and wide for a good one. I’ve eaten them in New York, Boulder, Colo. even in Anchorage at a restaurant called Johnny Chicago’s But as time has gone on, I’ve slowed down in my search for a truly outstanding one. Fairly or not, it’s tough to compete with memory.
In L. A. , there have only ever been a small number of locations where you can get authentic Chicago-style Italian beef. I’d like to suggest the French dip as a potential explanation for this glaring lack.
Cole’s and Philippe’s restaurants both claim to have invented the sandwich in the early 20th century, making it one of L A. ’s most famous contributions to the food world. According to Cole’s, it developed the jus-dipped creation in response to a customer with tender gums who had trouble biting into the crusty French roll. According to Philippe’s, the sandwich was accidentally created when the company’s founder dropped a roll into a pan of drippings. As with D. B. We probably won’t ever learn the whole truth about Cooper or the Black Dahlia.
What city has room in its heart to embrace two separate juice-intensive beef sandwiches? This could explain why there isn’t much Italian beef around here. Advertisement.
In “The Bear,” which premieres on Hulu this Thursday, Jeremy Allen White plays a renowned chef who takes over his family’s struggling Chicago beef sandwich shop.
But it’s just as well, as Chicagoans are fanatically protective of their foods. Chicago-style dogs with nearly every vegetable under the sun piled on top of them? Cheese and caramel popcorn eaten together? Deep-dish pizza derided by none other than Anthony Bourdain himself? We Chicagoans hear what you say about us and our food. We hear every little gibe and good-natured insult. And in true Midwest fashion, we squish all of it into a tight little ball and push it way down inside, to be released later at an inappropriate time.
(A note on claiming to be “from Chicago”: I spent most of my childhood in Oak Park, a suburb on the western edge of the city, though I lived there for five years. Since most people haven’t heard of Oak Park, it’s simpler to just say “Chicago,” but every Chicagoan will remind you that it’s not. If you claim to be from Chicago while actually being from one of the suburbs, people will treat you like you’ve ruined the carpet. It may as well be Iowa. ).
For me, the greatest of all Italian beef stands is Johnnie’s Beef, about six minutes from where I grew up, where I’ve eaten countless sandwiches. It’s a long, one-story shack with a wall of big windows facing the street; they light up at night, making it look like a small ship out on the water. Note that it is a beef stand, not a beef restaurant. It is a stand because there is no place to sit. (There are some picnic tables outside.)
Even in below-freezing temperatures, there is almost always a line, and it moves quickly. The atmosphere is not unfriendly, but it is succinct. When you get to the cashier, who accepts your cash and repeats your order to the group of young men wearing light blue shirts behind him in a nasal drone, it helps to already know what you want. It’s easy enough, because the menu is simple: Italian beef. Italian sausage. Beef and sausage combo. Hot dog. Pepper and egg sandwich (Fridays only). Additionally, there is a dish called “2 Dogs 1 Bun” that I have never ordered but can make a guess as to what it entails.
The suggestions for this week include a jerk Italian beef sandwich from a brand-new soul food establishment. In addition, you can make a vegan and vegetarian croque monsieur and a Tokyo-inspired egg salad sandwich.
Get yourself a small Italian ice and a juicy beef combo with hot giardiniera or, if you’re playing on advanced mode, a juicy beef and sausage combo. Unswaddle and devour. The spicy pickle mixture enhances the flavor of the delicate beef shavings. Just long enough for you to finish the sandwich, the bread manages to maintain its structural integrity despite being dripping with beef fat and olive oil. Advertisement.
This is the part of Chicago that never leaves me. It is my madeleine dipped in tea. Future sandwiches might not be able to match the memories of past beefs, but I’m not sure they have to. I can always dream about them because they are constantly waiting for me at home.
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Johnnie’s Iconic Italian Beef Is A Delicious Mess Of Beef And Gravy | Legendary Eats | Insider Food
FAQ
Is Italian beef only a Chicago thing?
Italian beef is now celebrated across the nation, not just in Chicago. Its distinctive blend of tender beef, flavorful au jus, and the choice of adding hot or sweet peppers on top has made it a beloved sandwich among residents and guests alike.
Where did Italian beef sandwiches originate?
The Italian beef sandwich first appeared in Chicago in the early 1900s, though its exact origins are unknown. Italian immigrants piled thin slices of the tenderized meat on Italian bread after slow roasting the meat in a hot broth.
What city is famous for Italian beef?
Thin slices of seasoned roast beef simmered in au jus (referred to as “gravy” by Chicagoans) and served on an Italian-style roll make up an Italian beef sandwich. The history of the sandwich goes back at least to the late 1920s.
What part of the cow is Italian beef?
Roasted, thinly sliced sirloin tip or top round beef is the main component of an Italian beef. It is spiced with Italian herbs like oregano and basil, as well as red and black pepper, and occasionally nutmeg and cloves.