How do you remove compression fitting from plastic tubing?

Turn off the water supply to the pipe connected to the plastic compression fitting to release it. Put the body of the plastic compression fitting in the crescent wrench’s jaws. Using a second crescent wrench, place the compression nut in its jaws and tighten the wrench to the nut. Remove both wrenches. Click to see full answer. Can I connect compression fittings to plastic pipe in this way? Connection to compression fitting Many compression fittings, but not all, are appropriate for use with plastic fittings and pipe. After the olive has gripped the pipe, the connection shouldn’t require more than two complete turns. Copper olives are preferable to brass olives. If you want to install an ice maker in a refrigerator, you must attach a line of plastic or copper tubing to the cold water line that supplies water to the refrigerator. Compared to copper, plastic tubing is more affordable and simpler to install. The tubing at the refrigerator’s back needs to be connected next. The bolts must be tightened uniformly; do you use Teflon tape on compression fittings in this regard? On the threads of compression fittings, thread sealants such as joint compound (pipe dope) or thread seal tape, such as PTFE tape, are not required because the ferrule’s compression between the nut and pipe serves to seal the joint, not the thread. How does a plastic compression fitting function? The ferrule(s) are radially compressed onto the outer diameter of the tubing as they move axially into the fitting body due to the body’s angled shape. The leak-tight seal between the fitting, ferrule, and tubing is made possible by this radial compression, which also gives the compression fitting its name. Source:

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Soaker hose compression fittings seem slightly miraculous at first glance. There are no threads to tighten or glue involved. Once the line is pressurized, you simply push the soaker tube into the fitting, where it will remain. A compression ring in the fittings creates a watertight seal and is angled to grip the tube, preventing it from slipping out. This makes it possible to assemble soaker hose irritation systems quickly, but it makes it challenging to remove the tubing should the layout need to be changed.

Step-1: Shut Off Water Supply

Typically, compression fittings have a shut-off valve at one end. It can be connected to the wall. Firstly you’d need to shut off the water supply.

After that, turn the shut-off valve’s handle to open it. When applying pressure, use caution to prevent breaking the valve handle. Now, let the remaining water drain from the line.

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The fitting will step off the irrigation tube if you pull while jiggling it from side to side. This works with push-in drip irrigation compression fittings of all sizes.

If you push another fitting on, the tube itself might not reseal, but the solution is straightforward for the tube; simply cut off the damaged surface or push on a little bit further.

Because the fitting is made of a more durable plastic than the polyethylene tube or dripline, it survives the situation largely undamaged and is still usable.

Put the connecting points in a large pot of boiling water to soak them. I did it right on the stove. Then pull with pliers. It worked for me. To finish getting it out, pull firmly and possibly re-soak after it budgetes a little.

Remove the screw-on cap, cut the tubing, and then push it through and out the end where the cap was if you can afford to lose some of its length.

Either of the aforementioned methods will work if you don’t have the luxury of removing a cap. Alternatively, you can cut the tubing and then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers (with one side in the tubing and the other outside) and twist the pliers to wrap the tubing around them. This will reduce the diameter and allow you to pull the tubing out.

If you can’t lose the length, remove the object without cutting the tubing:

Place a hose clamp over the poly tubing as close as possible to the compression fitting.

Tighten the hose clamp until the diameter of the poly tube looks to be reduced about 25-30%

Twist and pull the poly tube out of the compression fitting.

Remove the hose clamp. Poly tubing should recover most of its original diameter unless the hose clamp was over-tightened. If too small, place something in the ID of the poly tubing to stretch it back open.

Use needle nose pliers as shown in video below.

Recap:

Cut the connector from the tubing, but leave 3/4″ of tubing protruding from the connector.

Work one side of the needle nose pliers between the outside of the tubing and inner side of the connector to fold the tubing lengthwise down so its cross-section is only half of the tubes original diameter (cross-section is now “U” shaped).

Now use the the full pliers to flatten the “U” sideways so now its width is only 1/4 of the original tubing cross-sectional circumference.

Wiggle the flattened piece of tubing out of the connector, trying to avoid catching it on the sharp interior edge “grip” ring(s).

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