How do you open the back of a refrigerator?

Sometimes messes in the refrigerator call for more thorough cleaning, which requires removing the refrigerator’s bins, shelves, and drawers. The majority of them are designed to be removed with ease, but doing so correctly makes it even simpler. We’ve also included some advice for keeping your fridge clean all year long, so you can start cleaning your fridge after that. We also have information to assist you if you need to replace bins, shelves, or drawers after removing them.

Remove the glass on the vegetable or crisper drawers

Caution: Be careful when working with glass. It can break, cause an injury, or both. Never use warm or hot water to clean the glass shelf because doing so could cause the glass to break. Clean the glass with lukewarm water after allowing it to warm up to room temperature.

To make it simpler to clean the glass above the crisper or vegetable drawers, you can remove the glass when necessary.

If your refrigerator has a straightforward shelf setup, taking the shelf out isn’t at all difficult. Fully open the doors and remove the vegetable drawers. Lift up one side of the shelf with one hand. Slide the shelf out with the other hand while holding the shelf in place with this hand.

You must unlatch the glass from the top of the crisper drawers if your refrigerator has a more complicated setup in order to clean it:

Remove the lower door bins and then remove both of the crisper drawers. To remove the drawers, angle them slightly toward the center of the fridge while sliding them out.

Locate the tabs on both sides of the drawer divider and the water filter housing. There is one on each side, just behind the roller wheel. Push and hold both tabs inwards and lift the shelf out from the water filter housing. Note: The tabs may have a slightly different appearance but will be in the same location.

Dislodge the glass shelf from the back wall of the refrigerator by slightly lifting up while pulling it out. To remove it completely from the fridge, angle one side of the shelf downward while pulling it out. Then, carefully turn the shelf over and place it on a clean, flat surface.

To remove the glass from the plastic frame, locate the shelfs retainer clips. The retainer clips are located on the back left and right corners where the glass meets the white plastic. From the top side (where youll reinsert them later) they look like small white squares.

Now, turn the shelf over and find the clips again. You will remove them from this side.

Each clip has two tabs holding it in place. To remove the clip, push in the tab that is closest to the center of the shelf, while lifting the back corner of the shelf slightly. With enough pressure on the tab, the clip should fall out and the shelf will come loose on that side. Remove the other clip in the same way.

Once both clips are removed, gently raise the shelf and then separate the glass from the shelf frame.

To reinstall the glass shelf, repeat the previous steps in reverse.

With removing the large panel the LG disassembly video in this link may provide some clues.

With the small panel, try prying off the “button” with a screwdriver since it might just be a cap over a screw before pulling the panel out of the right-side slot.

I have an issue with the bottom of my refrigerator collecting water. I have the solution, but to use it (or conduct further research), I must first remove the freezer’s back panel.

The videos and documentation I have found for the fix show removing a different back panel, and I’m at a loss for how to remove this one. There are no screws to remove. There is a rectangular panel with tabs at the top left that is difficult to remove, and I’m hesitant to force it out of fear of breaking or snapping something that won’t actually be the mechanism to remove the panel.

To fast forward to the 7:50 minute mark in the LG Refrigerator Disassembly Video, start the video by scrolling down the page.

Servicing the Defrost Timer

The defrost timer is probably broken if the compressor doesn’t run. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:

Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: Cut the wires connecting the timer and the timer motor. Back out the two retaining screws to release the timer from its mounting brackets.

Step 3: Use a VOM calibrated to the RX1 scale to test the defrost timer. Turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks, and then attach one VOM probe to each defrost timer wire rather than the motor wires. The meter will show zero if the defrost timer is working. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer using the same connectors as the old one.

Clip one VOM probe to each motor wire and set the scale to RX100 to inspect the defrost timer motor. The motor is in good working order when the meter reads between 500 and 3,000 ohms. The timer motor is damaged if the meter displays a reading of more than 3,000 ohms. Replace it with a new one of the same type. In the same manner as the previous motor, connect the new one.

The heating element for this part is situated on the evaporator coil. The defrost heater is activated when the refrigerator or freezer enters the defrost cycle to remove the compartment’s frost. Failure of the defrost heater causes failure to defrost.

Utilize a VOM with the RX1 scale to test the component. Take down the compartment wall panels to reveal the heating element. Clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. The meter should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If not, the heating element is defective and needs to be replaced. In its place, install a new heater with the same type and electrical rating. In the same manner as the previous heater, connect the new one.

The condenser fan is located under the unit. The refrigerator or freezer won’t cool properly, run continuously, or not at all if the fan is broken.

Utilize a VOM with the RX1 scale to test the fan. Clip one VOM probe to each fan motor terminal after disconnecting the electrical wires from the fan motor. The motor is operating correctly if the meter displays a reading between 50 and 200 ohms. The fan motor needs to be replaced if the meter displays a reading of more than 200 ohms.

Make sure the fan blades are clear and clean while you are working on the fan motor. If the blades are bent, carefully straighten them with pliers.

Both the freezer and the refrigerator parts of the appliance have drain ports along the bottom. When the unit is defrosting, these holes may fill with debris or ice and cause a drainage issue. Use a brief section of wire that will fit the holes to clear the ports. Avoid using a toothpick because the wood could break off and get stuck in the port. The drain ports on some refrigerators are situated next to the defrost heater at the evaporator coils. It takes a lot of disassembly to clean this kind of unit. If the freezer or refrigerator is of this type, it might be wiser to hire a professional service technician to clear the ports.

Some freezer compartments have a drain that resembles a shoehorn and is situated beneath the freezer compartment. The drain area can typically be cleaned by unscrewing this type of drain.

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