Families in Oklahoma can grow tasty, high-quality vegetables in their own gardens from spring to fall, as well as vegetables that can be processed or stored for the winter.
The money spent on seeds, fertilizer, pesticides, and a few tools is more than made up for by the fun, healthy exercise, and delicious food grown in your own yard.
The selection and preparation of the garden site is an important key to growing a home garden successfully. An area exposed to full or near full sunlight with deep, well-drained, fertile soil is ideal. It’s also a good idea to put the garden somewhere near water and, if possible, away from trees and bushes that would take away its light, water, and nutrients.
Even though these conditions are perfect, many urban gardeners only have a small space that isn’t the best place to grow lettuce. But you can still grow a vegetable garden if you change some cultural practices and the kinds of plants you grow. One or two hours of direct sunlight a day is enough for this plant to grow. It can be used in bright, airy places with light shade, like under young trees or older trees with high, lacy canopies. When the weather is like this, many vegetables can grow, such as turnips, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, and turnips. Size and form of harvestable plant parts will be reduced depending on amount of light reaching plants. Fruiting vegetables may benefit from afternoon shade during hot periods in the summer.
If the ground doesn’t drain well or the topsoil is thin or has too much sand or clay, gardening in raised beds or containers might be better. If you have a raised bed garden, you should use good garden soil. For container gardens, you should use growing media that doesn’t contain soil.
The chart on page 2 should be of help in determining family requirements of the different vegetables.
Perennial vegetables (asparagus, rhubarb, winter onions, etc. ) should be planted at one side or end of the garden for efficient operation. When you plant hardy vegetables early in the season, you should do so together so that you can plant more of the same or other vegetables later in the season. Vegetables requiring similar cultural practices should be grouped together for ease of care.
Perennial vegetables (asparagus, rhubarb, winter onions, etc. ) should be planted at one side or end of the garden for efficient operation. When you plant hardy vegetables early in the season, you should do so together so that you can plant more of the same or other vegetables later in the season. Vegetables requiring similar cultural practices should be grouped together for ease of care.
The recommended spacings are based on best practices in the traditional row method of gardening. Smaller spacings can be used in alternative gardening methods such as container or square-foot gardening. In these situations, compact varieties of plants such as tomato and eggplant are a good choice.
The chart groups vegetables as cool season or warm season crops, indicating under which conditions they grow best. It is possible to plant cool-season crops earlier in the season, and they do best when it is cool (average daily temperatures of 70 F or less). On the other hand, warm-season crops do better when it is warm (average daily temperatures between 70 F and 90 F).
Based on the temperature the plants will withstand, vegetables are hardy, semi-hardy, tender or very tender. You can plant hardy types before the last frost or freeze in the spring, and they can handle cold weather in late fall. Some plants can’t handle a hard frost, but they can grow in cool weather and won’t be hurt by a light frost. Some plants can handle a light frost, but others can’t. On the other hand, cool weather hurts very tender plants.
Different parts of Oklahoma have different planting dates. The earliest dates are for southeast Oklahoma, and the latest dates are for northwest Oklahoma. Planting dates also may vary when season extension techniques are used.
In order to have a successful garden, the gardener must follow a few guidelines. These tips might help keep some common garden issues from happening or make it easier to deal with they do:
Green beans are a delicious and nutritious veggie that are fun and easy to grow in Oklahoma. With the right timing on when to plant, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful harvest of fresh green beans throughout the summer. This article will cover everything you need to know about the best time to plant green beans in Oklahoma for optimal results.
Overview of Green Bean Growing Conditions
Green beans thrive in warm weather and need soil temperatures consistently above 55°F to germinate and grow properly. They are intolerant of frost or cold weather. The seeds will rot in cold, wet soil.
In Oklahoma, green beans are planted as a summer crop once the threat of spring frosts have passed They take 50-60 days to mature from seed to harvest, so you need to time your planting accordingly to ensure you get a productive crop before the first fall frost
Determine the Best Planting Time Based on Your Location
The ideal green bean planting window varies across Oklahoma depending on your USDA Hardiness Zone and local microclimate.
Northern and western parts of the state have later last spring frosts and earlier first fall frosts. Central and eastern Oklahoma along the I-35 corridor enjoy a longer warm season more favorable to green beans.
Use the frost dates table below as a guideline for when to plant green beans in your city:
City | Last Spring Frost | First Fall Frost |
---|---|---|
Oklahoma City | April 10 | October 31 |
Tulsa | April 15 | October 25 |
Lawton | March 20 | November 5 |
Norman | April 5 | October 25 |
Stillwater | April 10 | October 20 |
Muskogee | April 5 | October 20 |
Bartlesville | April 15 | October 15 |
Ardmore | April 5 | October 25 |
Follow Soil Temperature and Weather Conditions
It’s best to plant green beans based on soil temperature rather than strictly going by the calendar Purchase an inexpensive soil thermometer to monitor the temperature in your garden beds
Plant green beans when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F in the morning at a 2 inch depth. This usually occurs 2-3 weeks after the last spring frost once the soil has had time to warm up.
Pay close attention to extended weather forecasts. Avoid planting if cold temperatures are predicted. Be prepared to cover plants with frost cloth if a late frost threatens after planting.
Start Seeds Indoors for an Earlier Harvest
You can get a head start on the green bean season by sowing seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your average last spring frost date Then transplant the seedlings outdoors once the soil warms up
Start your seeds in biodegradable peat pots so you can transplant them with minimal root disturbance. Harden off the seedlings first by setting them outside for a few hours per day to transition them to outdoor conditions.
Just make sure your last expected frost date has passed before setting transplants in the ground permanently. Young green bean plants are still vulnerable to cold damage.
Optimal Planting Window for Major Oklahoma Cities
Here are some general guidelines for the best planting window for green beans in Oklahoma’s major metropolitan areas:
- Oklahoma City: April 10-30
- Tulsa: April 15-May 5
- Norman: April 5-25
- Lawton: March 25-April 15
- Stillwater: April 10-30
- Muskogee: April 5-25
- Bartlesville: April 20-May 5
- Ardmore: April 10-30
Of course, you’ll want to observe soil temps and weather forecasts for your specific area and adjust accordingly. Plant on the later side of the window if spring is slow to warm.
Planting Tips for Success
Follow these tips when planting your green beans:
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Space rows 18-24 inches apart. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 2-4 inches apart in rows.
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Prepare soil well by mixing in several inches of compost. Green beans need nutrient-rich, well-drained soil.
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Water soil regularly after planting if dry. Beans need consistent moisture, especially when germinating and flowering.
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Mulch around plants to retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Grass clippings or straw make great mulch.
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Consider providing climbing support for pole bean varieties.
Avoid the Following Mistakes:
- When you plant too close together, you can’t walk or work in the garden. This can make diseases more likely and stop plants from growing normally.
- Putting fertilizer right on the roots, stems, or seeds of a plant
- Cultivating deeply, resulting in injury to plant roots.
- Planting varieties that aren’t right for your area or the time of year; however, do try brand-new varieties.
- Too much or too frequent watering that keeps the soil wet and squishy
- Allowing weeds to grow large before elimination.
- Putting down home remedies, fertilizers, or pesticides without thinking about it or reading and following the directions on the package (Remember, these materials are being applied to your family’s food!).
- Using chemicals not specifically recommended for garden crops.
- Storing leftover diluted spray.
Table 1A. Garden Planning Guide, Cool Season.
Vegetable | Time to Plant | Feet of Row Per Person | Days to Harvest | Method of Planting | Spacing Between Rows |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cool Season | |||||
Asparagus | Fall or Spring | 10-20 | _ | Crowns | 4 ft. |
Beet | March | 10-20 | 50-70 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Broccoli | March | 10 | 80-90 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Cabbage | Feb.15 to March 10 | 10-20 | 60-90 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Carrot | Feb.15 to March 10 | 20 | 70-90 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Cauliflower | Feb.15 to March 10 | 15 | 70-90 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Chard, Swiss | Feb.15 to March 10 | 10 | 40-60 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Kohlrabi | Feb.15 to March 10 | 10 | 50-70 | Seed | 2 ft. |
Lettuce, Head | Feb.15 to March 10 | 20 | 60-90 | Seed or Plant | 1-1 1/2 ft. |
Lettuce, Leaf | Feb.15 to March 10 | 20 | 40-70 | Seed or Plant | 1-1/2 ft. |
Onion | Feb.15 to March 10 | 25 | 60-120 | Sets | 1-1 1/2 ft. |
Onion | Feb.15 to March 10 | 25 | 60-120 | Plants | 1-1 1/2 ft. |
Peas, Green | Feb.15 to March 10 | 30 | 60-90 | Seed | 3 ft. |
Potato, Irish | Feb.15 to March 10 | 50 | 90-120 | Tuber pieces 2-3 oz. | 3 ft. |
Radish | March 1 to April 15 | 15 | 25-40 | Seed | 1 ft. |
Rhubarb | Fall or Spring | 12 | _ | Crowns | 4 ft. |
Spinach | Feb. 15 to March 10 | 35 | 50-70 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Turnip | Feb. 15 to March 10 | 20 | 50-60 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Table 1A. Garden Planning Guide, Cool Season. (contd)
Vegetable | Spacing Within Rows | Depth to Cover Seed | Quantity Needed Per Person | Frost Tolerance |
---|---|---|---|---|
Cool Season | ||||
Asparagus | 2 ft. | 6 in. | 3-5 | Hardy |
Beet | 4 in | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. | Semi-Hardy |
Broccoli | 1 1/2 ft. | 6-7 plants | Hardy | |
Cabbage | 1-1 1/2 ft. | 6-15 plants | Hardy | |
Carrot | 3 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Semi-Hardy |
Cauliflower | 1 1/2 ft. | 6-8 plants | Semi-Hardy | |
Chard, Swiss | 3 in. | 1/2 in | 1/2 oz. | Semi-Tender |
Kohlrabi | 6 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Hardy |
Lettuce, Head | 1 ft. | 1/4 in. | 1/8 oz. or 20 plants | Semi- Hardy |
Lettuce, Leaf | 3 in. | 1/4 in. | 1/8 oz or 40 plants | Semi-Hardy |
Onion | 4 in. | 1 in. | 1/4 qt. sets | Hardy |
Onion | 4 in. | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. or 75 plants | Hardy |
Peas, Green | 2 in. | 2 in. | 1/4 lb. | Hardy |
Potato, Irish | 1 ft. | 4 in. | 6-8 lbs. | Semi-Hardy |
Radish | 2 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Hardy |
Rhubarb | 2 ft. | 3 in. | 3-4 crowns | Hardy |
Spinach | 2 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/4 oz. | Hardy |
Turnip | 3 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Hardy |
These dates indicate planting times from southeast to northwest Oklahoma. Specific climate and weather may influence planting dates. For vegetables that grow in cool weather, the soil should be at least 40°F where the seeds are planted.
Table 1B. Garden Planning Guide, Warm Season.
Vegetable | Time to Plant | Feet of Row Per Person | Days to Harvest | Method of Planting | Spacing Between Rows |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Warm Season | |||||
Bean, Lima | April 15-30 | 20 | 90-120 | Seed | 2-3 ft. |
Beans, Green or Wax | April 10-30 | 40 | 50-60 | Seed | 1 1/2 ft. |
Beans, Pole | April 10-30 | 20 | 60-90 | Seed | 3 ft. |
Cantaloupe | May 1-20 | 20 | 80-100 | Seed or Plants | 3-5 ft. |
Cucumber | April 10-30 or later | 5-10 | 50-70 | Seed or Plants | 3-5 ft. |
Eggplant | April 10-30 | 5-10 | 80-90 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Okra | April 10-30 or later | 20 | 60-70 | Seed | 2-3 ft. |
Pepper | April 10-30 or later | 10 | 90-110 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Pumpkin | April 10-30 or later | 30 | 90-120 | Seed | 5 ft. |
Southern Pea | May 1- June 10 | 20 | 85-100 | Seed | 3 ft. |
Squash, Summer | April 10-30 or later | 10-20 | 40-60 | Seed or Plants | 4 ft. |
Squash, Winter | May 15-June 15 | 30 | 110-125 | Seed or Plants | 5 ft. |
Sweet Corn | Mar. 25-April 30 | 50 | 80-100 | Seed | 3 ft. |
Sweet Potato | May 1- June 10 | 25 | 100-120 | Plants | 3 ft. |
Tomato | April 10-30 | 10-20 | 70-90 | Plants | 4ft. |
Watermelon | May 1-20 | 10-20 | 90-120 | Seed | 5-8 ft. |
Table 1B. Garden Planning Guide, Warm Season. (contd)
Vegetable | Spacing Within Rows | Depth to Cover Seed | Quantity Needed Per Person | Frost Tolerance |
---|---|---|---|---|
Warm Season | ||||
Bean, Lima | 6 in. | 1 in. | 1/8 lb. | Tender |
Beans, Green or Wax | 4 in. | 1 in. | 1/8 lb. | Tender |
Beans, Pole | 8-12 in. | 1 in. | 1/8 lb. | Tender |
Cantaloupe | 2-3 ft. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Very Tender |
Cucumber | 2-3 ft. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 oz. | Very Tender |
Eggplant | 1 1/2 ft. | 3-5 plants | Very Tender | |
Okra | 1 1/2 ft. | 1 in. | 1/4 oz. | Very Tender |
Pepper | 2 ft. | 5 plants | Tender | |
Pumpkin | 3-4 ft. | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. | Tender |
Southern Pea | 4 in. | 1 in | 1/8 lb. | Tender |
Squash, Summer | 3 ft. | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. | Very Tender |
Squash, Winter | 4 ft. | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. | Very Tender |
Sweet Corn | 1- 1/2 ft. | 1 in. | 1/8 lb. | Tender |
Sweet Potato | 1 ft. | 25 plants | Very Tender | |
Tomato | 2-3 ft. | 4-5 plants | Tender | |
Watermelon | 5-8 ft. | 1 in. | 1/8 oz. | Very Tender |
**These dates indicate planting times from southeast to northwest Oklahoma. Specific climate and weather may influence planting dates. For vegetables that grow in warm weather, the soil should be at least 50°F where the seeds are planted.
Table 2. Common Garden Problems
Symptoms | Possible Causes | Corrective Measures |
---|---|---|
Plants stunted in growth; yellow colored foliage. | Improper soil fertility or soil pH | Use fertilizer and correct pH according to soil test. Use 2 to 3 pounds of complete fertilizer per 100 square feet in absence of soil test. |
Plants growing in compacted, poorly drained soil | Modify soil with organic matter, coarse sand. Provide surface drainage. | |
Insect or disease damage; Root Knot Nematode | Use recommended control treatments. | |
Iron deficiency | Apply iron to soil or foliage. Correct soil pH. | |
Plants stunted in growth; purplish colored leaf veins. | Low temperature | Plant at proper time. Do not use light-colored mulch too early in the season. |
Inadequate phosphorus | Apply phosphorus at soil test recommendation. | |
Holes in leaves; leaves yellowish and drooping or distorted in shape. | Insect infestation | Identify the insect pest and use recommended control measures. |
Plant leaves with spots: dead, dried areas; or powdery or rusty areas. | Plant disease | Identify the cause of the symptoms to determine recommended control measures. Disease resistant varieties may be needed. |
Plants wilt even though sufficient water is present. | Soluble salts too high | Have soil tested. |
Soil is too wet | Add organic matter; ridge soil for surface drainage. Plant in raised beds. | |
Insect, disease, or nematode damage on roots | Use recommended varieties and recommended treatments of insecticides and fungicides, and soil insecticides or nematicides. | |
Plants tall, spindly, and unproductive. | Excessive shade | Relocate to sunny area. Keep down weeds. |
Excessive nitrogen | Reduce applications of nitrogen. | |
Blossom drop (tomatoes). | Hot winds, dry soil | Use mulch and water. Plant heat tolerant varieties. |
Low night temperatures | Avoid early planting. | |
Overwatering or disease | Reduce watering, use recommended disease control treatments. | |
Tomato leaf roll. (Leaf roll may not necessarily affect productivity) | Excess nitrogen and water | Withhold nitrogen, reduce watering. |
Beet curly top disease | Remove plant if diseased. | |
Downward cupping and curling of tomato leaves. | Damage from 2, 4-D or similar herbicides | Don’t spray on windy days or when temperature is above 80 F. Herbicides used at distant locations may affect tomatoes and other vegetables due to movement in air currents |
Leathery, dry brown blemish on the blossom end of tomatoes, peppers, and watermelons. | Blossom end rot | Maintain uniform soil moisture and apply mulch. Avoid overwatering and excessive nitrogen. Select tolerant varieties. Protect young flowering plants from windy conditions. |
Planting Warm Season Beans
FAQ
When should you plant green beans in Oklahoma?
Crop
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Based on Frost Dates Based on Moon Dates
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Start Seeds Indoors
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Start Seeds Outdoors
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Garlic
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N/A
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N/A
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Green Beans
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N/A
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Apr 17-May 8 Apr 17-23, May 7-8
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Honeydew Melons
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Mar 20-27 Mar 20-25
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Apr 24-May 1
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What beans grow best in Oklahoma?
What month do you plant green beans?
When should I start planting my garden in Oklahoma?